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Best vendor for electrical parts

artmck

Senior Member
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I need a new ignition switch and headlight switch for a 74 roadster. Best place to buy?

Thanks
 
Hi Artmck;

The Autoist's used parts bin.---Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif


Kimberly who you think the "Autoist" is??---- Watch:


:wh-HEY TONY, /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif

Artmck needs an Ignition switch and a Head light switch for

a 76 Roadster.---------------------Keoke-- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
hehehehe..PM me or send an email - can probably do used or new
 
Keoke -

You had suggested a source for used parts. artmck had asked about new. I got my switches new (no shipping charges) from a local Moss distributor and have had no problems with the parts. Just letting artmck know that Tony has both new and used. It was Tony whom led me to this board almost four years ago.

Kimberly
 
If you have your choice between a new reproduction headlamp switch and a good used Lucas switch take the used Lucas switch. The repro switches will be lucky to make it to your next oil change if they work at all when installed. And new Lucas made headlamp switches ARE still in production , but they are 250% more in price than a Chinese copy. The ignition switch is a different story since it was not made by Lucas. A reproduction is all that is available to the best of my knowledge. I saw an original British manufactured ignition switch (electrical part only) sell for just under $80.00 recently on Ebay. Probably for good reason. I no longer guarantee any labour on reproduction parts when originals are available. At first there was a problem but now almost everyone understands.
Alan T
 
I agree, Alan. A few years back when "Special Interest" car parts went Tango Uniform on us, we bought all we could from the inventory they had... when those were gone we found out the hard way the Tiawanese counterfeits were pre-FUBAR'd. Scrap right outta th' box. And it just HAD to be on a V-12 E-type client's car, too... wouldn't ya know.

Aside: just re-read and realize SICP has pro'lly been gone for a ~decade~ by now! sheesh. Don't blink...
somebody'll take a few years away from ya! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thankyousign.gif



Alan & Doc----------------------Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif


Kimberly, we just be pulling your leg a bit.
 
Yep I really miss SICP. I was on vacation the week they abruptly went away and missed the great selldown. Last week I sold my last 39914 headlamp switch that came from there. Cost $14.50 on sale so I bought 10. An HIF float was $6.25. And those Jaguar parts............Ah,those were the days.

Alan T
 
AlanT said:
If you have your choice between a new reproduction headlamp switch and a good used Lucas switch take the used Lucas switch. The repro switches will be lucky to make it to your next oil change if they work at all when installed.

A-men! I had the original switch finally go out on me, and 3 in a row have been bad pretty much right out of the gate. The good news is that they only go bad when it's dark outside....

R>
 
I ordered through Tony, so hopefully he gets the good stuff.
Thanks for all of the input! I'm thinking of putting relays in for the headlights anyway to limit the current going through the switch, and hopefully improve their brightness. A friend had given me an NOS marina ignition column module, but the switch has 4 wires to 5 on the B unit, so I didn't attempt to use it. The key lock is also different, but I think it could work if I needed it.
 
You guys were right about the quality, the new stuff from China is total junk. The ignition switch does not return to the run position very well after being in the start position and the general feel is quite mushy. I took apart the old one, fiddled a bit and have it working perfectly. I had no idea these were so robust inside and could be easily worked on.

The headlight switch does not fit into the dash hole, and when I noticed that the rocker does not transmit light into the green area I thought I would be smart and swap the old rocker into the new switch, assuming I could file the housing to fit the dash. As soon as I took it apart it cracked so it would not go together again. Once again, the old one came apart, cleaned up nicely and went back in the car. $100.00 wasted.
 
I had my turn signal switch go out on me a while back and replaced it with one of those far east jobs. It never ~felt~ right. It wasn't centered properly, and felt like it would break every time I switched on the indicators. Well, the indicators part didn't break, but the hi/low beam switch did. The low beam contacts wore out under a year and I ended up driving around with only hi-beams at night until I found myself a NOS (new old stock) Lucas turn indicator switch from eBay. The thing works perfectly and feels ~a lot~ more solid than the far east repro.

I've already ordered a headlight relay/fuse block for my car. The Lucas switch gear should last ~a lot~ longer than the far east counterpart, but I think I can get even longer life out of the switches with the relay/fuse block thanks to the reduced current flowing through them. Plus, the other benefits that you already mentioned, art.
 
DrEntropy said:
I agree, Alan. A few years back when "Special Interest" car parts went Tango Uniform on us, we bought all we could from the inventory they had...

I still have their blue catalog somewhere :-(

I bought NOS Rover fenders and a hood from them; had them shipped to a friend's body shop, probably 15 years ago. No one could touch their prices and they arrived undamaged in a fabricated *wooden crate*. Took me half an hour to break it apart so it would fit inna dumpster. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif

I usually manage to find a couple of new "orange box" or "black/red box" switches at Carlisle, but things are getting picked over. The "green box" stuff is iffy.
 
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