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Best screws for woodwork to BJ7/8 hood frame

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bob hughes

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Hi Guys

Well after buying a new drain channel, I have decided to fit the hood back onto the car using the old drain channel for the moment as what I have planned for the next phase of the project will take an age and Goodwood Revival is in September; and not to put a dampener on it, I have a feeling in my water that it may rain this year ( I have chanced my luck for the last 2 years without the hood.)

Sooo, I have plumped for the raised countersunk head screw to fit the wood to the hood frame, but should it be slotted head or cross head? Both look good and I have both types in polished stainless steel mmmmmm nice.!

While I am at it, what type of screw system fixes the rear bow to the drain channel, I am thinking of covering the rear bow in vinyl and using a cup and screw system ( cross or slotted head?) a bit like fixing the door card to the doors.

Bob

:cheers:
 
Hi Bob,

All the screws used for the wood were 3/4" phillips head wood screws.
Photo of the actual Healey screws used from my 64 BJ8 attached. Some thing stand the test of time.
The upper trim rail used rivits.
:cheers: Roger
 
Before you do anything with the front bow, match it to the chrome top of the windscreen. They tend to warp and if it isn't a match you WILL get wet. Do this before you cover anything. I had a new top installed and now I'm replacing the wood bow. I have to pay the labor again.
 
tahoe healey said:
Before you do anything with the front bow, match it to the chrome top of the windscreen. They tend to warp and if it isn't a match you WILL get wet. Do this before you cover anything. I had a new top installed and now I'm replacing the wood bow. I have to pay the labor again.
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear that Rich.

The wood header is pre shaped with a cut out for the metal top frame to fit into. First thing to check is the condition of the wood bow, as Rich recommends. Sometimes they can be repaired, vs replacing them. I haven't heard of them warping, for that's a big thick piece of wood. Yours must have been wet all the time?

The repair needed to mine was the front was worn away from rot and from the staples used to hold the finishing strip. I had a wood shop repair it. He used some wood and bondo. The back of the wood where the top frame screws into was fine. The top frame mirrored nicely into the wood channel.

As Rich pointed out and brought up a good heads up, check the fit of everything. I filled all the screws holes in all my wood with toothpicks and some glue. Then re-drilled with a small drill for fresh pilot for my new screws, ensuring a good bite.

Cheers,
Roger
 
:savewave:

Yes the wood at the front of the hood warps as does the rest of the wood pieces in the hood assembly it is a pretty common problem. Similarly. use stainless steel screws of the original configuration. Stuffing the original holes with bits of Vinyl from spot ties will tighten the new screws up on reinsertion.----Keoke
 
Thanks guys, my wood was OK and is now fitted, I used cocktail sticks and glue to fill the holes - upmarket to toothpicks!
I used the cross heads in the end and they look great.

Bob
 
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