• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Best , safest points to jack a BJ8

Share this page

Randy Harris

Randy Harris

Jedi Warrior
Offline
I cannot locate this in the archives, would you experts please tell me what is the safest and most efficient point(s)to jack up a BJ8 to expose the front of the car and ditto to reveal beneath the rear end? I need to place my jack stands once I have lifted the car with the floor jack, where would they be safely installed?

This all seems so elemental but I don't want to damage my frame (any more than I already have that is).
Thanks
Randy
 
You know, I read the discussion (and others) and find it curious that there does not seem to be a generally accepted standard for this procedure. Me, I drive the car onto ramps, then place a long sturdy piece of hardwood between the front cross member and my floor jack, jack er up and put jackstands under the spring pans. Jack up the back with the floor jack under the diff, and then place jack stands under the long frame members, forward of the axle. Seems to work...is this bad?
 
Nevets; You are great with that long sturdy piece of hardwood until it slips off the jack or the front crossmember,then you will be heading for the radiator shop!---Keoke-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
Nevets,

Im guessing part of the reason is everyone has different floor jacks, jack stands, ramps, pieces of wood, pieces of steel and last but not least ... preferences and opinions on how to use them! I have a set of stands that fit the Healey main rails very well and usually place them close to the front and rear wheels. I have not placed them under the spring pans because the stand to spring pan interface looks dubious to me (Im sure its just an impression and if someone showed me their set-up I might like it). Maybe if I had different stands I would be more comfortable supporting the car there. I have also jacked the car up from the front cross beam using a piece of wood to spread the load. I do like that I can get the front end up all in one go. I will invest in a better floor jack soon because mine is at its limit to lift the front with all the engine weight. I have a set of steel ramps but really dont like using them. A good lift would be ideal!

Cheers,
John
 
OK, my 2 cents. I'm thinking of cutting a 2x4 to fit across the front cross beam and screwing 2 small L-brackes on each side to keep it centered on the beam. Place the jack in the middle and jack away. Put the jacks under the spring plates.

The rear, cut a hole in the center of a block of wood that will clear the drain plug on the rear end, pumpkin?, and jack away. Place the jacks under the leaf spring plates.

That way I can lift the entire front and entire rear and not have to worrie about lifting one corner of the car too much and tweeking the frame in doing so.

OK guys, let me know what a bad idea that is. This topic has been going on for a while I read. Oh and Randy Harris wants to know if it's ok to jack the car using the front cross beam. So I told him I would ask. How's that Randy. See, they think the question came from me. Sweeeet.
 
Tell Randy Absolutely NO!---Keoke
 
I would think the "L bracket would" not be able to hold up to the force of a rolliong car. I use a piece of 1/4 inch L shaped piece of steel 14 inches long. You are best to use a ramp in front and the pumpkin in back. Onced up, I back up with 6x12x20 blocks of wood under each back wheel (never trust the hand break!). If I need it higher I use the jack stands. I feel it is best to raise it a little at a time, front and back alternating. Extra time means less time in the hospital. Same comming down, slowly.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I would think the "L bracket would" not be able to hold up to the force of a rolliong car.

[/ QUOTE ]

It's just meant to keep the 2x4 from twisting when placed under the cross beam. The jack should have enough pressure on the wood to keep in centered at point of impact. Hey, looks good on paper, Cheers, Roger
 
If you go to your local welding shop with your jack and the with of the rails they can fabricate a "U" shaped piece of steel with a little cup centered where the jack will hit the steel. (Cheap)
 
Watch out TH, the fuel line runs on the back side very close to the bottom of the crossmember.---Keoke
 
and another "watch out" for the welded center seam which stands proud of the beam. I've cut a channel in the hardwood to avoid putting any weight on the seam. If you go with a metal channel you should factor this in.

Btw, I do think the metal channel is a good idea as long as it's very sturdy and spans all the way to the main rails. I would epoxy in two thin strips of hardwood inside the channel or a single routed piece to leave a gap for the center seam and protect the paint when lifting. And of course one of the side walls would need to be cut down or otherwise spaced to avoid the fuel line.

Cheers,
John
 
Back
Top