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T-Series Bent Push Rods

Paul said:
Oh, Maybe I can cover the engine with a moving blanket! :encouragement:

Be sure to treat it with a non-conductive fire retardant! :smirk:
 
Took the old girl out yesterday, (the TF) :jester:, for a longer run at 60mph and it preformed flawlessly! Timing is a couple degrees off but easy fix. Slight ticking of the valves due to the Cranes wider settings, but I can live with that. Life is good! :encouragement: PJ
 
YAY! Glad it all worked out!
 
Good news!
 
Hi Paul,

Don't know if this affects your new #5 rocker arm, plus I'm talking "second hand" about something I know little about ...

My engine builder ordered new rocker arms for my XPEG from Moss. They were not available, so he ordered them from another supplier. When he installed them, he found that they were too short: the tips didn't land in the center of the pushrod, or in the center of the valve stem - - I don't remember which.

He called Moss and was told that they had found that their rocker arms were too short and had removed them from inventory. I checked - TF rockers are not listed on the Moss site. They are still on the other supplier's website. Probably from the same manufacturer.

The rockers are not included in the parts bill from the builder, so I can't confirm.

Lonnie
TF7211
 
I got mine from Dan Craig (momsauto) Lonnie and they are identical to the originals. :encouragement:
 
I think Dan bought these Crane push rods and rockers to rebuild an engine many years ago and never used them and mentioned them to me on the phone if I wanted them, naturally I bought them from him. He's a friend and I don't know if he has a web site or not.
 
This maybe a dumb question but have you figured out the source of the carbon buildup on the valves that held them open and bent the pushrods??
 
Not really Joe, I do know the carbs were running a tad rich which the result could be seen in the exhaust ports. Odd that the tail pipe color was a nice gray and color tune on the plugs previously showed a good burn and light brown in color. Seems like this all happened when I pushed it pretty hard on the interstate for about 50 miles. I forgot the carb needle size in them but I might get a slightly leaner set of needles, could be dumping too much fuel in at high RPMs. Right now it's running beautifully at 65 MPH or below, haven't pushed it any higher. It was a very hot day when this happened and it might be a combination of things causing a rich mixture, don't know. :confused: PJ
I said earlier it was a cool day, it was cool in the morning, but hot in the afternoon when this happened. Sorry.:sour:

This maybe a dumb question but have you figured out the source of the carbon buildup on the valves that held them open and bent the pushrods??
 
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As per my engineer @ Crane Cams valve lash can be +- 25% of recommended
Corroborated by a Porsche book from many years ago > tighter lash = more duration for long race tracks & wider lash for shorter tracks less duration = more torque
 
The most torque is at low RPM's on my 1952 TD/C, so I get the engine up to 4th gear by 25-30 mph. I rarely push the RPM's up into the lands of 5,000 RPM. Like yours, mine was rebuilt four years ago. They installed new rings and four new pushrods. The work was well done at Precision Machine Shop in Hyattsville, Maryland. Our local MG club recommends Precision Machine Shop. Precision does machine work for Joe Gibbs Racing. I saw a pair of race car engines when I dropped off the engine; those engines are massive and clean as a surgery room.
 
Sticking valves are due to 2 reasons:
1) mixture too rich, 7/16" Float level & Jet .030" below the bridge for H2 1 1/4" Carb, & .040" below the bridge for H$ 1 1/2" carbs.
Joe Curto for needles GJ for H4 & ES, I believe for H2.
2) Low RPM = high vacuum > carbon on the valve stems.
Correct the mixture and drive them like they were meant to be driven, they are SPORTS CARS! These engines wear designed for use up to 5500 RPM! I stock ROLLER Rocker arms and Roller cam kits for MG T types as well as a large stock of Crame / Comp Cams MG products.
Abingdon Performance Ltd.
 

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Use a higher octane fuel to reduce carbon build up and always let warm up before any shut down.
 
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