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Bent pedestal stud

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drooartz

drooartz

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At least that's what the Moss catalog calls it. When I pulled the 1275 from the Midget, I hooked the hoist up to the 2 studs that come through the valve cover. I was worried about bending/damaging something, and it looks like I was right. The stud at the rear of the motor is slightly bent, so that the cap nut doesn't seat all the way down anymore.

Will I just need to replace that stud, or might I have done more damage?
 
That is exactly what I was cautioning about in another thread recently, Drew! The topic was about engine removal and a few people stated that they use those studs, in fact there are even "lift brackets" available on the market (VB catalogue pp54 - #11) to attach chain hooks to those studs! I think there is too much risk to the valve train and would rather pick the engine up by the thermostat housing studs or the alternator mount up front and bell housing bolts at the back!

Check the whole pedestal carefully and make sure it is vertical, not leaning a bit. The camshaft rotates through this and if bent you could wear the camshaft bushings at the very least!
 
Cam what?
 
From the old school I just use a couple of straps, one at front and one at rear.
 
OOps, good catch Trevor I did of course mean ROCKER shaft, just a little old age brain fade...typing and thinking can get to be a challenge sometimes!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif
 
Too late for me to change how I removed it, unfortunately. Live and learn. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif

Next swap, we'll use a different plan I think, but that's a ways off.

Sometime in the next few weeks I'll be separating the engine and tranny and getting the engine mounted on my engine stand. Tearing down and checking the engine is a good pastime while I'm saving up for my radiator and fuel tank work. I'll be sure to add checking the rocker shaft, if I can figure out how to do that. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
If you have a decent manual, just follow proceedure. "Tab A into slot B" etc. etc. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
Good books I have, and of course there are all of you...

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
For the record, between my Dad and I, we've probably pulled and reinstalled 1275s 50 times or more by the studs without a single problem ever. There is nothing inherently dangerous in it but it sounds like perhaps you didn't have a large enough loop of chain between the studs. If you have just enough chain to go from the front stud to the rear stud with only enough space to fit the hook under, then it is easy to see that all of the stress is going to be at nearly a right angle to the studs. If you use a large high-arcing loop of chain, the stress is vertical and there is almost zero lateral stress on the studs. Chain, a come-along and a strong joist is all you need when done right.

JACK
 
What happened was that the rear bracket wasn't tightened quite enough, so the L bracket wound up with a little room to move around once I got things hanging. I caught it and tightened things up again, but that must have put just enough lateral stress on the stud to bend it slightly.

Bugeye engine removal should be a bit easier since the angle of the engine and transmission can be so much lower. That's a ways off, though...
 
Drew;
I just resently hung my engine and trany attached to an engine stand. I crudely fabricated a couple of brackets and fastened it to the side of the engine. Left side. Worked fine. Tonight I will remove the trany, check the clutch plates etc., clean it up a little and rebolt it to the engine. Works fine. Also able to install all of the stuff that goes on the right hand side. Can also roll it over and paint the underside of the engine.
 
I keep looking at the engine stands for sale at Harbor Freight and can't imagine how the 1275 engine (or any A series engine) bolts on to them.

Any suggestions, pictures?

===NEVER MIND...Just did a search on ENGINE STAND reading all the rplies....Thks....===
 
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