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Bending Brake Line

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Vince - nice lines. I cheated and bought mine pre-bent from classic Tube and Line.

Raymond - suspect the MC might be leaking internally (bad seals, pitting/scoring or the bore).
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I used the originals as models[/QUOTE]

& nicely done, they are....
 
i think the master might be leaking as well
i tried the peddle test pushed the peddle down with the motor off and
it steadily went to the flood after about 15 seconds

how hard is it to replace the master ?
 
Ray, there are the two brake lines to remove, the clevis pin at the cylinder pushrod, and two mount bolts. Piece of cake. Add in the time to bleed everything, with a helper, (provided you bench bleed the new cylinder first,) and you're looking a two hours, tops.
Jeff
 
Bloody tandem cylinders! WHO NEEDS 'EM!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif

Jeff has it as well as can be told. Two "halves" for safety, just bleed 'em starting with the furthermost "device" first. Left rear IIRC.
 
well i have two little helpers and i guess it might be time to learn how to bench bleed a master


why do i have to bench bleed the master cant i just bleed it after i install it on the car?
 
Sure! Just a bit more "exercise" is all.
 
Ray, I'm probably going to open a can of worms here, but in my experience, bench bleeding a master cylinder is good practice. All you do is <u>gently </u>snug the cylinder in a vise, and run two short lines directly from the ports into the top of the reservoir, making sure that the open ends of the lines are below the normal full level. (I have a set of hard lines with a short piece of clear tubing attached,just for this. With the clear tubing, you can see any bubbles.}Then, using the method of your choice, gently push the piston to its <u>fullest</u> travel, repeating until no bubbles appear in the reservoir. Then, just install they cylinder as normal, but leave the bench lines there until connecting the real lines.
There are two advantages in doing this first, in my estimation.
1)You can tilt the master to place the ports at the high side, where the air will be expelled, and,
2) You can push the piston to its full range of travel, as doing it in the car will only take it to the pedal stop, <u>not</u> the piston stop, ensuring that you are getting the majority of the air out of the cylinder.
I've had folks tell me that bench bleeding is a bunch of hogwash, and then later complain of mushy brakes, whereas I do it my way, and still have a hard pedal after 45 minutes of racing.
Jeff
 
There are soo many ways to respond to this...

If you pay attention to nuance and see the <*REPEATED*> ~GENTLY~ reference it works every time.


...and Jeff will be outta th' pits with FULLY FUNCTIONAL brakes every time in an eyeblink, too.
 
Geez, Doc, ever lose the brakes on an A-7? No drag bag, but one heck of a tail hook! Makes a believer out of you.
All sundries aside, I've had racing competitors ask me after a race, "When do you brake for turn 6? I'm on the binders at the 200 foot marker, and you went by me like a bullet!"
Well, I treat my braking system like the lifesaver it is, and in that situation was typically on them hard at about 90 feet. "Yeah, idiot, I went past you like that because I was still WOT in 4th gear."
Jeff
 
Bugeye58 said:
Well, I treat my braking system like the lifesaver it is, and in that situation was typically on thenm hard at about 90 feet. "Yeah, idiot, I went past you like that because I was still WOT in 4th gear."
Jeff
Click to expand...

AND "braked late and aimed for the apex"? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
The hardest part of the MC replacement is usually getting the pedal box cover off/back on. If it hasn't been removed in a while the screws are often rusted in place - or worse the heads are chewed up and need to be drilled out. No fun.

Replace the 10-32 machine screws with stainless steel and use antisieze on the threads.

Oh, and forget the screwdriver. I use a large phillips bit taped into a 1/4 in socket taped onto a longish extension to get them out. Tape the screw head to this contraption to get them started, or better yet, use some stainless Allen head machine screws when you replace them.
 
What Scott said - plus when you have it all out is a good time to clean & treat the metal underneath - guaranteed to have brake fluid 'blister'!
 
OK so bench bleed it is and i like the idea of replacing the peddle box screws with stainless fasteners

and should i treat the peddle box with Por 15 or just paint ?
 
I'd use POR if you plan to use DOT 3 fluid. If using DOT 5 then no special paint is necessary. Remember to never put DOT 5 in a system that has been using DOT 3 unless everything is new or thoroughly cleaned and all seals replaced.
 
I was able to obtain some BRG to match the '67 so I repainted it with a brush (hold on now) to match the car. Most of it was under the box so you don't see the brush marks. It's also real busy in that area so you don't see it much. In hindsight, I'd recommend something a little more durable if you are not worried about aesthetics. A little dripped while tightening the fitting and I can see some bubbling so I'll need to address it again one day. I've never used the POR but from what I hear it is durable stuff. I'd like to know myself as I need to address my '74 in the next few weeks.
 
i have not tried Por 15 either but i know people who swear by it
and i can pick some up at Iola this weekend so i thought now is the time to try it out
 
It's better than anything I've tried, including spray and powder coat. But if you get it on anything it isn't supposed to be on, it's there forever. Use very large drop cloths!
 
Steve_S said:
It's better than anything I've tried, including spray and powder coat. But if you get it on anything it isn't supposed to be on, it's there forever. Use very large drop cloths!
Click to expand...

And Latex gloves for your hands...it stays on them for weeks! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif
 
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