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BE Rack Alignment

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erstearns

Jedi Trainee
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The frame member that the steering rack bolts to has been replaced. Sure that it is not in "exactly" the same spot as original (many years ago it was hit on the left front and the repair job on the frame member left it twisted and I had it replaced by a handy welder friend of mine).

The manual outlines an alignment procedure that calls for shims to be likely under the mounting bracket at the pinion end (although I am not sure if it makes a difference if RHD or LHD?).

If I am reading the procedure correctly the point of the exercise is to make sure the pinion stem and steering column are in correct alignment.

As long as that is achieved does it really matter where or which bracket is shimmed? To get proper alignment I have to shim the bracket on the opposite end from the pinion.

Also, which end of the steering tube is "up", the cpen end or the slightly inward rounded end?
 
I had a 1500 midget with rack mount problems after an accident and "repair" by a body shop.

The car was positively dangerous while driving 25 mph in a straight line!

Bump steer is caused by mis-alignment of the tie rods / steering arms, to the A-frames. This caused the wheels to "steer" when it hit a bump. A very little is unavoidable, but anything more will make the car turn while driving straight. Needless to say bump steer should be kept to a minimum.
 
Most if not all the Spridgets I have disassembled had the rack shim on the
"passenger" side. This goes for RH and LH drive cars.
The shim, usually about 1/8" steel is always opposite the pinion.
Keep turning the steering wheel with the rack loosely in place and the front end hooked up. You will feel a crunchiness in the steering wheel in the rack and the pinion and column are not aligned.
 
As usual Spritenut has it dead on.
 
Are the shocks OK - it sounds like they might not be working.
 
Seems like the shim is in the right place, passenger side. Manual may have been written for RHD. When everything is lined up, with no pinch on the pinion stem by the steering rod, there is a slight gap on the inboard side of the pinion end bracket. Since this is necessary to keep the stem angle correct guess I will make a shim to go here with the other end of the bracket up against the frame.

1/4 inch square shim on passenger side bracket, small shim under inboard side of driver end bracket.

Currently up on jackstands. Will check with wheels on floor for correct alignment before tightening all bolts.

Ordered upper and lowere felt bushes from MM. The top one is twice as thick as the bottom and there is no way the rod is goint thru it. Used the old one pending more thinking.
 
Those felt bushings are trickie, too tight and the stearing will not come back to center when you round a corner. Be very carefull that they are installed correctly and soak overnite in oil for starters.
 
Jack, is the upper bush twice as thick as the lower? I soaked in oil but it seemed way too tight. I could get the inner column thru outer only as far as the threads. I may not understand how far it is supposed to go on.

First, which end of the outer column is up (didn't notice a difference when I took it apart years ago)? The open end toward the steering wheel or the end slighly rounded inwards.

Second, how much of the inner column sticks out on the steering wheel end?

If only the threads stick out I can see why the upper bush is thicker as it sits on the beveled end of the inner column.

Should have taken more pictures, more notes and started sooner. For me, some of the simple things seem the hardest.

Thanks, Eric
 
As I remember the rounded end goes on the bottom.

As to the rest, I'll be darned if I remember, however I do remember messing with it a bit till it fit correctly.

Seems like more than the threads stick out as the wheel sets on the splines.

I will take a look tomorrow and report.
 
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