The Lucas battery cut off switch is one of the most poorly designed parts on the car. The contacts are small & the "spring" that holds the contacts together is a joke. The first time the contacts develop a little resistance the spring gets very hot & loses what little tension it originally had. A conservative example: The starter draws 100 amps, 200 would be more likely. The switch contacts develop 1/4 ohm resistance, this causes the contacts to dissipate 2,500 watts. If the starter draws 200 amps the wattage in the contacts would be 10,000 watts. The contact bar & spring get hot, the spring anneals, & the switch fails. If that isn't enough, as Bob says, there is also a possibility of the switch contact grounding if the detent which holds switch positions gets weak. This detent relies on the same "spring" already mentioned.
I personally choose to do without the switch altogether. If I were going to keep a switch, I would get an aftermarket one which is readily available at rod shops or boat shops & much better constructed.
Aside: if you reverse the two large connections, the coil will be grounded when the switch is turned to the on position.
D