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TR2/3/3A Basic TR3 Operator's Manual

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LexTR3 said:
Can you shed some light on my confusion over "mixture control rod," "jet connecting rod assembly," and "choke linkage." Are the all names for the same thing?
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I believe so, but I'd have to go read the various references to be sure.

To my mind, "choke linkage" includes not only the rod, but the levers and springs as well. But that doesn't mean that particular author used it the same way. As Humpty Dumpty said, "There's glory for you."
 
Just came across this old thread while trying to sort out how to adjust my carbs for the first time on my 56 TR3. Very useful collection of information from various sources. Is there a "final" version posted somewhere that I could consult? Concerning the initial setting of the throttle adjusting screw, I have two different settings in two sources. One says turn throttle adjusting screw 3/4 turn open, the other says 1.5 turns open. What should it be? I assume this means turn in the screw this far to open the throttle a little. Is that correct? Can't get the the car to idle right now, but revs quite smoothly at 3000 rpm. Thanks for everyone's continued help. Cheers, Mike
 
mgedit,

The SU Workshop Manual says: Unscrew the throttle adjusting screw until it is just clear of its stop and the throttle is closed. Then set the throttle adjusting scres 1.5 turns open.

More useful is: The throttle adjusting screw on each carburetor should be adjusted until it will just hold a thin piece of paper between the screw and the stop when the throttle is in the closed position. Then give each screw one complete turn down (to open).
 
Hi, Mike,

If you can't get the engine to idle right, as you no doubt know, it may not be the carbs that are causing the problem. Could be a number of other things, including your timing.

I've read of many ways to set the timing -- static and dynamic -- etc., etc. The simplest method is the one Don Elliott suggests:

1. Get the timing and idle about right.
2. Test drive on a quiet, straight road.
3. While in 4th gear, step on the gas at about 1000 rpm. The engine will either "lug" along or it will accelerate with a pinking sound.
4. If it is pinking (pinging) pull off the road and set the vernier on the distributor to a bit more retarded.
5. If it is lugging, safely pull off the road and set the vernier on the distributor to a bit more advanced.
5. Return to the road and try again. Repeat this until the engine starts to pink (ping).
6. Pull off the road and set the vernier back a bit to retard.

There may be more to this than I have captured here, but it is a great way to get the timing about right.
 
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Thanks Ed. Will keep experimenting. I think timing is close, but will double check. Trying to get running so that I can get safety check done and get licence, so driving right now is not an option. However, good to have input on Don's method. BTW, hope to see Don in Ottawa in a couple of weeks at our big local British Car Show as I think he is planning to drive down from Montreal. Cheers, Mike
 
Mike,

Have a treat trip to Ottawa.

I hope you are having a dryer summer than down here in the "jungle." So far this year, we have had 12 inches (!) above average of rain. Normal day: 90 degreees and 80 percent humidity. My main problem with my TR3 now is to keep mold from growing on it (literally).
 
Seems rain is hitting us all this summer ... We've been getting rain it seems every day. Thanks again for putting that great summary together. Cheers, Mike
 
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