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Wedge Ball joints on TR7
- Thread starter srmorse
- Start date
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Its been a while but I think that you must take the arm off and to a machine shop to get this sucker pressed in. Its a tight fit and rust and time have made it even more so.
While your at it, you may as well save some grief and do both sides at once,the other side is not too far from being as bad as its twin.
MD(mad dog)
While your at it, you may as well save some grief and do both sides at once,the other side is not too far from being as bad as its twin.
MD(mad dog)
false alarm on the lower ball joint. I started really looking at it this weekend and the play was actually coming from the inner ball joint (attached to the steering rack). The Tie rod end was pretty nasty too (no play in it but the boot was shot). I've ordered replacements and will reinstall later this week.
Any tips on what I need to grease before reassembling?
Any tips on what I need to grease before reassembling?
I recently aquired an '80 TR7 whose rubber on the front suspension has seen better days, including the rubber dust cover on the front lower ball joints. My plan was to replace the bushes, steering boots (both are torn), the ball
joints, and the tie rod ends all at the same time. That said, my question is this; neither the factory service manual or the Hanes manual say anything about having to compress the springs in order to replace the lower ball
joints. However, it looks like the spring is going to want to decompress if I remove the arm that holds the lower ball joint. This is the first time I'm doing this on a TR7 and I was trying to avoid getting into the struts and springs if at all possible. Any info would be appreiciated.
joints, and the tie rod ends all at the same time. That said, my question is this; neither the factory service manual or the Hanes manual say anything about having to compress the springs in order to replace the lower ball
joints. However, it looks like the spring is going to want to decompress if I remove the arm that holds the lower ball joint. This is the first time I'm doing this on a TR7 and I was trying to avoid getting into the struts and springs if at all possible. Any info would be appreiciated.
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Jedi Knight
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The TR7 uses a Macpherson strut arangement on the front end. The coil springs will not come off for ball joint replacement. Since you are practically rebuilding the front end, I would go ahead and replace the struts while I had everything out. It will cost you a few bucks, but you will be glad you did in the end. If you need anymore help, let us know. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Mark Beiser
Jedi Warrior
Offline
When you jack the car up with the front suspension hanging free, it stops at the maximum extension of the strut. It is safe to remove the control arm, or even the the whole strut assembly. Just don't remove the nut on the end of the strut or really painfull things happen really fast.