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Balancing Beads

The clips are flat. If you run over one and it flips up, second tyre can nail it.
My data comes from at least three tyre stores or repair facilities locally.

Look at nails and screws. They usually lay flat on the road (some roofing nails may lay upright).

How do they puncture your tyre?

All I'm passing along is the data passed to me.

We could get into ROHS...lead-free solder.
Manufacturers (some of whom I am still a dealer for), have told me all that has done is drastically increased cost to customers (time, cost of irons that burn out far more frequently, tracks lifting when repairs are attempted).

How many people do you know that eat electronic circuit boards?
Why else would California have mandated (15? or more employees in the state) "The State of Confusion....errr...California has determined that...." stickers be applied to boxes containing electronics?

All the recycling done, banning of electronics in the trash.....ludicrous.

The issue really is, when California pushes it, some other states follow...or the Feds.
WE get stuck with what California does.
 
nevets said:
Interesting concept. I never heard of balancing beads...wonder why they are not more popular?

I believe they are more popular than you and I are aware of. I was introduced to the idea months ago from a biker who uses them and says a specific amount of these beads are placed via through the air valve stem (valve part removed and tubeless or tube type tires). As the tire spins, any gyration is then compensated by these beads acting as counterweights as the tire is in motion. They always re-position themselves each time when the tire starts in motion.

Maybe someone else here can say more accurately about these beads in detail than I.

I understand the key in these beads working properly is inserting the proper amount. Sounds like they work in similar way to the lead weights except one deals with statics(fixed?), the other with dynamics (motion?).

Paul
 
RAC68 said:
HealeyRick said:
Ceramic beads are unlikely to address one of the main causes of scuttle shake ... unbalanced rear brake drums.

Rick, I would expect to address the drums separately unless the applied power/bead weight was sufficient to address the requirements of both wheel and drum as a unit. If so, it could work and also eliminate the requirement of indexing the wheel and tire for dismounting/mounting as required when balancing wheels on the car.

Whether power or beads, the dynamics of these approaches is intriguing and I would like to hear more about it. Since the wires do flex and, between the wires and tires, change their geometry quite a bit, I would expect the dynamic balancing would be quite a benefit and very effective.

Ray (64BJ8P1)


Ray,

I agree, the bead subject is interesting and if it works would get rid of unsightly wheel weights as well as not having to hunt down a place that can balance wire wheels. My comment was to bring attention to what is often the cause of "scuttle shake" ... wonky rear drums.

Curing scuttle shake can be a real adventure and can be caused by out of round wires or tires, out of balance wheels, worn front suspension and who knows what else. When I did the V8 conversion, I was determined to rid my BJ7 of its scuttle shake. I purchased new Dayton wires and tires that were trued and shaved as well as had my drums balanced ...all by Alan Hendrix. I had the "doghouse" reinforced with additional bracing when the footboxes were being narrowed. The shotgun approach worked and it's completely smooth now.

If you decide to go with the beads, please give us a report on how it works out. Good luck.
 
I am still at a loss as to what makes these beads work. I understand putting a fixed weight on the wheel rim to counter balance the irregular weight of the tire. But how do the beads "find" their way inside the tire or tube so that position them selves in the correct spot opposite the heavy part of the tire? Or am I missing something. Probably should have spent more attention in high school physics class instead of drawing pictures of Healeys.
 
WaltCasten said:
... I'm really getting tired of politics, I wish they didn't have to creep into this forum.

Not picking on you Walt, but wanted to quote your message to say that politics must not creep into the forum. It always just turns nasty and gets us no where.

So please consider this a gentle reminder from this forum's Moderator to keep it positive, respectful, and on-topic. I think you all know the rules and this forum has an <span style="font-style: italic">excellent</span> reputation. Thanks for helping me keep it that way.

And now back to our program...
 
Rob Glasgow said:
I am still at a loss as to what makes these beads work.

This is my understanding. Above a critical speed about 20mph or so the heavier side of the wheel wants to move as close to the centre of rotation as it can get, which is what we feel as vibration. This forces the lighter side of the tyre away from the centre, and as the beads are free to move about they move to the furthest point from the centre which happens to be the lightest side. Once sufficient beads are at the lightest point to make it balanced, the rest just distribute around the tyre.

This process happens again every time the vehicle goes faster than about 20mph or hits a bump that disturbs the beads so there will occasionally be vibration until the beads find their balance again.

Andy.
 
So ... how do tire shops determine the optimum amount of beads? Do these only work in tires with tubes? I'd really like to read a tech sheet about this. Anyone have a reference?
 
Editor_Reid said:
WaltCasten said:
... I'm really getting tired of politics, I wish they didn't have to creep into this forum.

Not picking on you Walt, but wanted to quote your message to say that politics must not creep into the forum. It always just turns nasty and gets us no where.

And now back to our program...

Thanks Reid, I was about to make a snide respose to Bob Spidell such as:

Yes, the world was a perfectly clean place before man <span style="font-style: italic">invented</span> lead...

But like you said, this gets us nowhere.

The reality is that I would like to know not only if these beads work but also what do they mean for serviceability. Do they end up being a real pain like that fix-a-flat stuff when you go to dismount a tire that's full of it?
 
Hi All,

I have become very interested in these ceramic beads and reviewed the web site. The thing I like is that the beads are poured into the inner tube through the valve so there is no requirement for dismounting the tire or tube. Since these are relatively inert, they can be extracted (poured out) of the tube and used again in another tube when a tire replacement is required.

As far as flat fixing is concerned, the beads need not be extracted for a tubeless plug, however, a patch on a tube will require a tube replacement in order to maintain a smooth interior surface for the beads to easily float. They do recommend not using the beads in old tubes as the introduction of compression oil over time will cause the beads be slowed in their response and even stick.

Since their extraction seems easy and their per wheel cost for a 2 oz. bag of $6.95 plus filtered valve core of $1.40 seems a reasonable, I am playing with the possibility of trying this approach. I have transmitted some verification questions to make sure my understanding is correct and will post their response.

Rick, I questioned if these beads could compensate for tire/wheel and drum imbalances of up to 6 oz. Since many of us used on-car balancing of the rear wheels to address the problem, I would not be surprised if this method could resolve this issue as well (of cause it would take more beads).

Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Tires are inherently out of balance. Hendrix wire wheel service actually shaves the new tires after their mounted on the wheel to achieve better balance. Less weights are needed for a perfect balance. He does a lot of race car tires as well. It's hard to describe the improved ride and handling of the car after this was done. PJ
 
I agree in the excellence of Alan Hendrix’s work but I am looking to address the tire balancing issue when on the road and not in Alan’s neighborhood. The bead approach gives the option to have a tire and tube installed without worrying if the shop has the correct setup to balance the unit. When you have the time and want perfectly trued and balanced wheels and tires go to Alan Hendrix. When he is not close by and time is short….I find you are on your own and good luck finding a capable tire dealer.

Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
RAC68 said:
Rick, I questioned if these beads could compensate for tire/wheel and drum imbalances of up to 6 oz. Since many of us used on-car balancing of the rear wheels to address the problem, I would not be surprised if this method could resolve this issue as well (of cause it would take more beads).

Ray (64BJ8P1)

Ray,

For the cost of the beads, it certainly seems worth a try.Allen Hendrix's site says he's seen the drums as much as 6.5 oz out of balance https://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/drums.html If the beads work successfully, it would really make balancing a lot easier. Good luck with your quest.
 
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