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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]The new ones from VB also came in a box marked Beck/Arnley. Have you every heard of these guys Tony? Do Moss and VB both buy mounts from the same place?
[/QUOTE]

B/A is an old respected name, Barry. I would suspect all 3 buy from same place (nut "could" be wrong, but doubt it :crazyeyes:

:angel:
Not Tony :crazy:
 
I would be happy with anything that came in a Beck/Arnley box!! :thumbsup:
 
Ed Kaler said:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]The new ones from VB also came in a box marked Beck/Arnley. Have you every heard of these guys Tony? Do Moss and VB both buy mounts from the same place?

B/A is an old respected name, Barry. I would suspect all 3 buy from same place (nut "could" be wrong, but doubt it :crazyeyes:

:angel:
Not Tony :crazy: [/QUOTE]
Bedk/Arnley is a good, old name brand...however, Moss doesn't use them - they get their mounts from Moss UK.

How long had that motor mount been on that engine? And are you sure you didn't clean & reinstall an old one by mistake?
 
Down here in Johannesburg

I have had overheating problems for some time and googled 'MG Midget overheating' and came across an article which describes the best conductor of heat, therefore cooling, Silver!!!. They described the top 4, Silver, Copper, aluminium (aluminium here aluminum in the US) and I can't remember the other one. By the way can any one explain why radiators are painted black and not kept the original copper/brass.

Cheers,
Mark
 
Black has the highest thermal transmission rating of all colors, believe it or not (I didn't for a very long time).
Bill
 
I know you have already gone ahead and fixed yours, but you can also check out Speedwell in SoCal. They sell the Ron Davis alum ones that are really nice. I don't know what they're currently going for, but I think I bought mine for about $500. They are a perfect match, too--just bolts right up.
 
If it's anything like the one above that Ray got, the lower hose looks a lot easier to access.
 
+++**$#@^*&$^#%$^^$&# ARE YOU KIDDING ME??!!

The rad shop called me this afternoon and told me that it was finished. It needed recored. I showed up and they brought it up to the counter. I asked, "What in the H*** is that?" He replied that it was my radiator. I told him that it was not my radiator because it looked a lot nicer than that pos when I dropped it off. He said, what do you mean? THat is a brand new core.

Yeah, great. The core looks okay from the front but why in the world is it bent up in back.

Because it is copper and VERY soft.

WHATEVER!! And, who in the WORLD painted this???

I did.

Who taught you how to paint???"?

I should of left it there!!!!!!!!!!! I am a very patient and calm person, but...........

I spent this evening stripping his paint off and repainting myself. It still does not look as good as it did when I took it in, but exceptable to put it in the car and see if it holds together. Looks like I will be buying that alum jobby later on afterall..

You know, I am not that critical of a person. But, give me a break!
 
See if you can get him to give you the old core....
 
Tony, I am afraid of what I might do on Monday after this paint drys, its installed and if it leaks. I really don;t want to have to talk to him again.
 
I can't believe it needed recoring unless it was bad before the mishap.
 
The place that recored mine used to do great work. I mean it didn't matter if it was going in a beater pickup truck or a million dollar show car they made every job neat and of high standard. The job they did on the bugeye radiator looks awful (and thats after I asked them to file off the 10 pounds of unnecessary solder). I'm looking for a new shop. They also made a mess out of a fuel tank that was for a streetrod we were working on. Apparently, the former shop owner has long since retired and the people that worked under him have left too. I need to find out where they are.
 
All back together and ran her for about 20 minutes in the driveway. She seems to be holding together. Test drive tomorrow.
 
Yeah, I need to get one of those. Where would be a good place to take readings? At the head? What should the head temp be and where should I point the gauge?
 
I shoot the block right where the temperature sensor goes. That way I know I am comparing apples to apples. Careful of the infared sensors. They sense in a cone shaped area and most average the temps over that cone. It gets larger the further away from the target you are. Sometimes you end up picking up cooler objects even though the laser is right on the block.
JC
 
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