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Back on the road!

Morris

Yoda
Offline
Drove to work today and everything went well.

Weather was beautiful. 65 and partly cloudy.

Car ran beautifully, but it looks like I am going to have to re-map the spark advance for low revs and high map. Getting a little knock if I give her the gas when I am one gear too high.

Oil pressure is about 70 psi high and 15 psi at 800 rpm hot. That's a roughly 6 psi gain at the low end. Not perfect but workable.

All I did was tighten the head bolts ($0), rebuild the oil pump ($21), and replaced one main bearing ($21). Apparently, SOMEONE put the cap on backwards while measuring the clearance /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rolleyes.gif
 
Morris said:
All I did was tighten the head bolts ($0), rebuild the oil pump ($21), and replaced one main bearing ($21). Apparently, SOMEONE put the cap on backwards while measuring the clearance /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rolleyes.gif

Getting it on the road - Priceless!

Congrats - and if you run into that SOMEONE again, tell him to quit messing with my car too /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif
 
That Mr Nobody sure gets around. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif

Still, Morris it sounds like you're having fun. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif

Stuart. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
 
Good fer you, Morris!
 
Morris,

Can you replace the bearing without pulling the crank? I've read that was possible. Ive never had a bottom end apart before. Is it really that easy to slide the bearing around the bottom of the crank? Assuming of course not scored and clearances are within tolerances.
 
Not mains me thinks.
 
Jim,

It's not EASY, but dooable on a 1500. It took a bit of patience to get the upper half in.
 
Good to hear, Morris. Back on the road is a good thing.
 
Replacing main bearing shell on the top.

Cut and file a bolt to just the right size, and insert it into the crank oil gallery. Turning the crank will slide the old bearing shell out of the top, and using the same method in reverse slide the new bearing in. Remember the keyway doesn't fit between the crank and block so that part goes out first and in last.

Very important is no sharp edges on the filed bolt... it has a flat side to push the bearing shell... it's head is thin enough to fit between the crank and block without touching... the shank fits well enough in the oil gallery that the bolt doesn't tip... DON'T force it, it should slide smoothly enough. Don't allow the bolt to slide under the bearing shell. It will bend it (and scratch it). Hold the bearing shell in towards the crank journal with your fingers.
 
Thanks Donn,

Sounds like a little bit of practice will ensure the best results.
 
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