Axle to hub paper gaskets....are they necessary?

[JSabah]

I recently had my rear end gone through by my transmission/gear specialist. While I trust that he is knowledgable I want to verify that his suggestion is good. He returned the rear end with the axles loose so that when I install the brakes I can tighten up the seals with the drum/lug nuts. He put new O rings in but did not supply me with the paper gaskets and suggested that I add a very slight amount of sealant around (outboard) of the O ring. I purchased some RTV that says it is for differentials/gear oil resistant. Is it enough just to put the sealant or should I but the paper gaskets from Moss? If the paper gaskets are required, do you use them plain or with the RTV? This is for a late model 3000 rear end and everything is very clean. Thanks for your advice/experience.

 

[Michael Oritt]

No they are not necessary-nor is the gasket that goes between the differential and the housing. However I use them unless I do not have one on hand. BTW a trick to make installation of them much easier--esp the diff one--is to soak the gasket in water for a minute or so prior to installation. Rather than being a semi-rigid piece that fights going over the studs the gasket will be limp and almost stretchy.

 

[Keoke]

Never had one leak when the gasket was installed correctly

 

[British_Recovery]

I use the paper gaskets, saturated in oil for flex. Remember the small Phillips screws that secure the axle flange before you put the drum on. Also, there are two different paper gaskets. Earlier ones, used before o-rings were used, have a smaller inside diameter.
Bob

 

[Brinkerhoff]

I certainly would not special order just two paper gaskets to complete the job when a thin coat of RTV on a properly prepared surface will work just fine and get you back on the road.

 

[JSabah]

It seems that the gaskets are preferred and I understand about getting some flex in them by lightly saturating for flex. Do you use RTV on both sides of the gasket as well. Thanks for the help, I just want to get this right so I don't have to do it again ;-)

 

[JSabah]

Never mind my last question. I thought that Moss would waive their minimum since I just received a fairly large order and send me out 2 gaskets....but they won't and I'm not paying $20 for a couple of .95 items...RTV only method will be the way to go.

 

[Lambdaman]

The brown paper bags from the grocery store are exactly the right thickness, been using them for years, ready source of gasket paper in the pantry!

 

[Healey Nut]

The brown paper bags from the grocery store are exactly the right thickness, been using them for years, ready source of gasket paper in the pantry!

X2 best suggestion yet on this thread . I do the same made all kids of gaskets using the grocery brown bags . quick easy and FREE !!!!!!!!

 

[British_Recovery]

Oak tag file folders work great, too.

 

[JSabah]

A bit off subject, but in the same general vicinity....I can't seem to find my "before" pics of the rear drum brakes and don't recall if the springs are outboard of the shoes (with the spring hooks facing in towards the backing plate) or between the backing plate and the shoes with the spring hooks facing out. This is a late model 3000 with both springs being the same. Any reminders (or pictures) is appreciated. Also any tricks to getting the shoes and springs on (order of operation,method tools etc.) this all may be obvious when I get into the garage tomorrow...but it is 2am and I am thinking of what I am doing tomorrow (Saturday) ... I.e obsessing just a bit ;-)

 

[Keith_M]

Here are a couple of pictures of my 62 BT7. As you can see the springs are definitely inboard. The pictures also show the correct orientation of the shoes. Front of the car is to the right in all pictures.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

A bit off subject, but in the same general vicinity....I can't seem to find my "before" pics of the rear drum brakes and don't recall if the springs are outboard of the shoes (with the spring hooks facing in towards the backing plate) or between the backing plate and the shoes with the spring hooks facing out. This is a late model 3000 with both springs being the same. Any reminders (or pictures) is appreciated. Also any tricks to getting the shoes and springs on (order of operation,method tools etc.) this all may be obvious when I get into the garage tomorrow...but it is 2am and I am thinking of what I am doing tomorrow (Saturday) ... I.e obsessing just a bit ;-)

Here's pics of my shoes installed. I put one show on and with the springs on I just man-handled the other shoe on. Use new springs if they appear to be original. Be sure wheel cylinder slides and brake adjustment turns freely. I had to rebuild my one slacker(removing burrs) and then lightly grease it.

 

[JSabah]

Thanks gents...now I can get to work. I've rebuilt my cylinders, bead blasted my adjusters and steady posts, found e brake levers (mine were missing from PO) and had them zinc plated and even black zinc oxide plated the (wheel cylinder) retaining springs. After having my rear end gone through and one side of the tube straightened due to PO being hit ( very difficult to find someone who knows how to do that), fabricating the e brake swivel bracket (also missing) and welding it on and finding a e brake swivel and cross rods on e bay(also missing) and then finally powder coating the axle housing and backing plates and having the cone vibratory bead blasted. It seems like I am on the home stretch with this portion of my rebuild.

btw, just to be sure, my retaining clips for the wheel cylinder seemed to have been installed backwards from the PO as the boots would not go on the way he had them on. I ended up figuring out that the smaller one goes on first (against the backing plate) with the tangs/teeth facing up and put on from the e brake lever side. Then the larger one slides over so that when snapped together there is a slight recess for the boot to fit under....all with a bit of red rubber grease so that the cylinder slides and the rubber seals to the metal.