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Tips
Tips

Auto Body Painters, please counsel.

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2wrench

2wrench

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Attempting painting the TR myself. Did two other
vehicles, so not the first.

Tried to buy original type enamel paint. Told illegal
my county. Optioned to legal single-stage
enamel wth the urethane mixed right in. A little shinny
compared to orig, but color is right.

So last cars were shot with color first, then clear coat.
Visited paint shop and painter says shoot paint, clear
coat, sand with 800 grit until smooth and dull, then buff
with whatever I don't remember.

Anyway, I've shot and gotten some drips and insects
landing. So lightly sanded out drips with 600 and
looks like no burn-through. What do you think, now
hit lightly with 800 and buff out with what? Prevously
I used Meguiars Diamond Cut, but read about another
product by them that is attractng my attention. Read that
the Diamond Cut is for high-solids paint. Don't know if
my paint fits this description.

Also painters have told me they buff with a 3M product.
Looking for buffing and finishing tips, please.

Thanks.
 
#800 grit is very coarse for a modern finish, especially a clearcoat. I’d go finer before trying to buff it out, even with a single stage. (Personally, I wouldn’t treat a single stage any differently than a clear.)

Meg’s Diamond Cut is an excellent compound. Keep in mind it’s meant for use with a wool pad, not foam. By Meg’s standards it’s very aggressive but they’re pretty conservative. On some finishes it can take you to near final gloss.

Was the other product you heard about the So1o system? It’s very cool.

Here’s a recent thread about buffing: British Car Forum » Forums » British Automobiles » Triumph » Paint buffing


PC.
 
I talked with half a dozen pro paint shops. Could not believe all the conflicting 'advice"; even two guys in the same shop would argue over (1) correct compounds or grits, (2) correct buffing pad material, (3) the order to follow, and (4) the "last" coat.

So I finally went to a guy who'd run his shop for over 30 years. He said on a single coat he'd start with wet sanding at 1000 grit, then 1500, then 2000, then move to 3M Perfect-it Rubbing Compound, then 3M Swirl Mark Remover, then finish with 3M Glaze. All the 3M products to be used with a single action buffer and wool pads.

Haven't got to the glaze yet (doing the whole car), but making progress. Amazing how many techniques there are, and how bewildering it is to a beginner like me.

Tom
 
2000 then rubbing compound is moving backwards. Somewhere in some old posts we went thru the steps. Believe me the steps you have laid out contain inaccuracies.
 
Wyatt - how 'bout sharing with us the materials and steps you use?

Tom
 
NutmegCT said:
Could not believe all the conflicting 'advice";
Click to expand...
Just like this forum !
 
We have a Maintenance and Restoration Forum??


And what's with the ad in the middle of the discussion???
 
Since I do this every day......1000, 2000, 3000, then buff & polish. Never start out too course unless you are taking out runs.The 3000 is very pricy but well worth the extra$
MD(mad dog)
 
2Wrench,

I am not a "pro" but have painted a few cars in my life - mainly antique or older cars - so I use only lacquer or enamel to keep with the period.

With lacquer I put on 6 coats let dry a day or two then wet sand with 600 grit to smooth the paint to a uniform dull. Then I shoot an additional 6 coats and let sit for at least a week then wet sand with 2000 grit to a uniform dull.

Buff with 3M Rubbing Compound 39002
Polish with 3M Foam Polishing Pad Glaze 39009
Final polish with 3M Hand Glaze 39007

I do the buffing with a Makita buffer and convoluted foam pad.
I do the polishing with a Porter-Cable DA polisher and convoluted foam pads. Use seperate pads for each step and wash down and clean thoroughly between each step. Convoluted foam pads greatly reduce the chance of burning through the paint.

All this assumes that you have done the prep work on the panel. If you are down to bare metal - I use soda blasting - then scuff with 180 grit or use the appropriate metal prep. Epoxy primer followed by filler if needed and then multiple coats of sandable primer until all the defects are out then a sealer coat of epoxy primer.

I use PPG paint products but Dupont and others make fine products also. 3M has an excellent web site with tech support - tell them what you have and they will make recommendations.

Be very careful with paints. Most two part paints (epoxy - urethane) contain iso cyanates. Most resperators won't get this stuff - only a positive pressure air mask. Be sure to read the MSDS and other manufacturers warnings - use common sense and don't be a tough guy!!

I get excellent results using this "system" and I am sure that others get good results with their "systems" also.
 
There ya go Nutmeg. Some terrific info.......except for the Lacquer..... Just joking its what is to be used in your case. The Nitro or acrylic,.....heartbreaking stuff. MD, I have never used 3000,...convince me I should.

Hey any of you guys ever use shellac? It makes a great stain sealer.

Positive pressure air mask??.....so what am I to do with my Pall Mall?
 
BoxoRocks,

I don't have a positive pressure mask either, but I put on all two part paint outside with a resperator and try to stay upwind from the stuff. Yea, lacquer is old fashioned, but it is very forgiving and easy to apply and in the summer it drys about as fast as you can put a coat on depending on the thinner you use - although with all the modern urethane paints a lot of distributors don't stock it - but they can order it for you..

Never tried shellac - usually put on a sealer coat of epoxy to stop all bleed through.

3000 seems like overkill to me also but if thats what works for other guys I wouldn't argue. We all have our preferences - mine is Marlboro - didn't know they still made Pall Mall!!
 
Cyaker,

Both PPG which I use and Dupont get premium prices!! I have not used the supplier you mentioned. However, once you decide on a paint supplier I would stick with their products from bare metal to finish. You sure don't want any surprises.

Also, if you stick with one manufacture's products, you can always go back to them if something doesn't work.

With all the work that goes into a first class paint job I want to stay with a known manufacturer that backs their products. You need to look at the price of the paint to what your time is worth.

Just my opinion!!
 
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