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Tabcon

Tabcon

Jedi Warrior
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After waiting for what seemed like forever to accumulate the parts I needed to rebuild my humble tractor engine, I finally have almost everything I need. Last night I set everything up with the intention of at least getting most of the engine together, but when I checked the end play for the crank, I found that it was too much at .010", so I have to wait until new .005" thrust washers arrive. The crank is in place though and it turns like butter.

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3498/ppuser/10098

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3497/ppuser/10098

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/3496
 
Ooooo...SHINY! Looks great.
 
That's going to be one nice engine.
 
Performance and bling to boot, can't wait to see it!
 
Pauter rods? Are you putting 89mm pistons in too. Which cam did you get?

Got a photo of the head too?
 
Now that selection of parts is a thing of beauty! Can't wait to see it all together.

Nice choice of color on the block too.

Yeah, nothing like a little "bling" to get the crowds going. Or at least some of them.
 
Here are the specs for the engine:

<span style="font-weight: bold">Induction</span>: Twin Weber 45DCOE

<span style="font-weight: bold">Exhaust</span>: Racestorations stainless "Rally" headers

<span style="font-weight: bold">Head</span>: OE, ported, flowed, cc'd & milled to 11.7:1 CR

<span style="font-weight: bold">Crank</span>: OE, ion nitrided, ground, polished & balanced

<span style="font-weight: bold">Con Rods</span>: Lengthened Pauter Billet 4340 Chrome-Moly

<span style="font-weight: bold">Pistons</span>: 89mm J&E Forged Aluminum 1.25" Short Deck

<span style="font-weight: bold">Block</span>:OE, 89mm competition spun cast iron liners

<span style="font-weight: bold">Cam</span>: Newman TRI4 300/435

<span style="font-weight: bold">Valves</span>: Oversized & flowed stainless steel

<span style="font-weight: bold">Clutch & Pressure Plate</span>: Tilton

<span style="font-weight: bold">Flywheel</span>: Fidenza Aluminum with lightened OE ring gear

<span style="font-weight: bold">Connectors</span>: ARP for head, manifold, rods, mains, flywheel & valve train with ARP 12pt polished stainless steel for all external attachments.

<span style="font-weight: bold">Fuel System</span>: ATL Fuel Cell and Webcon Alpha electric fuel pump

<span style="font-weight: bold">Oil & Water System</span>: Mocal Oil Cooler with closed breather system and catch tank and upgraded aluminum water pump and radiator.

<span style="font-weight: bold">Electrical</span>: Race Proven 45amp lightweight alternator,
Electromotive ignition system.

I appreciate the support. I'm glad I decided to do everything myself. It's been a challenging project, but very rewarding so far. The new RATCO frame should arrive any day now and I can't wait to install the engine and see if it actually runs!

Most of the "bling" is just polished aluminum from Racestorations. The Brit's don't like it polished as much as us yanks do, but they will polish everything...for a bit extra. There are still a few more blingish items to install like the alternator from Race Proven:
Race_Proven_-_40Amp_Chrome_Alternator.jpg


I want to give credit to Paul for deciding on the red paint for the block. I used the Duplicolor Ford Red. I'll put the final coats as well as the clear on once all the greasy work is completed. The ceramic Dupicolor paint is great stuff and i highly recommend it. Thanks Paul!
 
Use hi temp clear.
The web site I found Race Proven is a bike site. That correct?
 
Tabcon said:
... The new RATCO frame should arrive any day now and I can't wait to install the engine and see if it actually runs!
Click to expand...

Did you opt for the powder coat on the frame??? Every time I go over to Tony's shop and see one of those frames powder coated, I drool.
 
great to see tab,
i love new parts. I have seen some racers use the nippon denso alternator from the toyota fork lifts- really small and good quality. I'm always looking for ways to save money on my build.
Rob
 
Thanks for the alternative. The Race Proven alternator is not very expensive when you buy it direct though, about $229 I think. The retailier I found it from wanted almost 500 bucks for it!
 
Tab,
I thought you were going to knife edge and lighten and polish your crankshaft? Was there a technical reason why you didn't or was it just too expensive?
Rob
 
I was Rob, but the guy who did it for me, Nick @ Shaftech recommended I not. The crank I sent him was in pristine condition and didn't even need to be turned, but I had him do it anyway. There's not a whole lotta meat on the crank anyway and he felt it really didn't need it. It wasn't much more money to do it, but I agreed and left it alone. I was thinking about polishing the crank myself, but I'm so sick of eating cast iron I decided not too. In lieu of the polishing and edging, I'm going to install a teflon bladed crank scraper. These things are cool!

1500-lightened-tef-e.jpg
 
Wow! Very nice! Thats a lot of time and money there, but it never feels bad when you do the work yourself! I can't wait to see the finished product.
 
With all that $$ invested, I'd {almost but not really} be afraid to race it.
 
LOOKS INCREDIBLE.

OKAY, question time:

Where did that alternator come from? Does that require replacement of the voltage regulator?

Can you explain the "lengthening" of the connecting rods? I didn't know that could be done?

Those pistons and liners look terrific. What kind of increased power do you get from that expanded bore? Where did they come from?

More detail on the new ignition system?

Any detail on those Webbers! I know they are frequently used. Can you explain the performance benefits?

Great looking project ready for great fun! Congratulations
 
One more question:

When I rebuilt my engine I checked the crankshaft end float and found it "OK." What method did you use in your case? Just wondering how you used the dial gauge, etc. Thanks
 
Looking good Tab. Keep the pictures coming so we can see the progress and process.

That red will look good with the chrome. Just be sure to give it the rquired time to dry and apply per directions and it will look great.
 
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