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Assembly Game Plan

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DougF

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The head is off. I found traces of a/f staining in #'s 3,4,&6 exhaust ports. I also pulled the oil pan to solve a leaking gasket problem and found a small amount of a/f in the oil.

I have cleaned the pan, pulled and cleaned the tappets, and just a quick wipe down. A more thorough cleaning tomorrow.
I plan to wipe down the cylinder walls and follow up with a coat of Marvel Mystery Oil. I'm going to check the head for warping with a straight edge and examine it for any problems. I will consider taking it to the engine shop but that would probably be the last time I'd see it this year. I don't believe there are any issues with the bearings, though I may pull a main and rod cap.

Any thoughts of things to do before dropping the head back on?
 
I installed ARP studs when I built the engine. I do have concerns over stretching. I will reuse them this time, but if the head comes off again while I have the car, they will be replaced.
 
I tested the the head with a straight edge and a .002 feeler gauge and found no problems. I was concerned that there could be warpage.
 
You will probably not have to worry about that with the ARP studs.

Can you have the head checked for cracks while it's off? Better now than later.....
 
I'm taking a gamble. The shop that did my machine work is very busy and chances are it would be months before I'd see the head again.

The head and rocker shaft are in place, valves not adjusted. Everything but the carbs/manifolds going on this evening. I have to trim the manifold gasket to match the head which will take a little bit of time.
 
Doug, I know things have changed radically up there since I've gone but have you looked at "Reliable Motors" in Beaver as an alternate machine shop? The B.F. store was my fall-back, but I know the family sold the place many years ago.

Or check with Jim or the guys in Sewickley for other suggestions?
 
I'd even go to Tom Spadafora at TRF, just to be sure, but then again, I know you want to try it like this, so I'll hope for the best and say a Novena for you.
 
:lol:

I'll be lightin' candles here then!!

...more for a pagan ritual tho. A reserve of Castrol L to throw on a sacrificial/sacramental bonfire inna back yard. :wink:
 
No better motivation than the aroma of Castrol L and candles....engines and asphalt work too.
 
So your gasket carving is coming along well?!?!
 
The oil pan is on and the filter is changed. No more laying on the back jobs. The manifold gasket isn't finished but is coming along. Have to find where I hid the other carbide burs.
There is a huge car cruise in Wexford on Friday I'm going to try to make, about 1700 cars each week.
I hate to say it, but things have gone very smoothly.
There's another guy in town that does very good machine work, but if I asked him to magnaflux the head, he would also reseat the valves, pull the guides and reinstall and do about ten more things I didn't ask him to do.
I'll have to talk to Jim again about who he uses.
Does TRF do their own machining or just assembly? It's been a few years since I've been in the shop.
 
Doug said:
I hate to say it, but things have gone very smoothly.
Click to expand...


SHHH!! :smirk:
 
The carbs are in place with the lighter spring connectors at the throttle shafts. They return to idle position much better than before. Thanks Brosky, I hadn't really noticed the difference between them and the new style.

I know I might creating myself a lot of work, I guess I'll find out probably tomorrow.
 
Drove the car to the car cruise this evening. Everything held together for the 30 miles driven.
Still have some idle issues, but it has to do with the tab washers holding/not holding the throttle shaft adaptor end firmly.
So far so good.
 
OK, so far so good. Do you still have the old linkage on there? Did I ask this before.
 
I have the Ratco cable. I originally hooked it up to the middle carb, but now have it hooked to the rear. I doubled up the tab washers because of the added strain from the additional carb. I also used thread locker on the shaft, but it didn't hold.
 
The added resistance caused by the poor alignment of my throttle shafts loosens the adaptor nuts.
I pulled the carbs for about the 15th time this afternoon to fix the nuts. I have to go back at them this evening to try to lessen the vertical difference between #2 and #3.
Currently, the shafts will not return, period. I have to physically move them.
My biggest problem has been with #3 intake manifold being drilled wrong causing the alignment problems.
 
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