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Arrrgh! [AKA Good Night Turned Bad]

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Hey guys!

Indeed, there was rust in the water valve when I removed it. Also, I could see rust in the block when I pulled the adapter off (and come to think of it, there were also peaces of the thread sealer that I had to pick out of the block... perhaps some fell in before I could see/get it?) and no water came out when I pulled the adapter. But I think it was pretty dry due to the loss of coolant when the valve broke.

I just bought the car in October, so I have never flushed the cooling system before. If I flush it as shown in the owners manual, wont I just be flushing the radiator, though, and not the whole system?
 
The rust can be stubborn but it is a nuisance rather than a real mechanical problem. The Owners' manual method flushes the WHOLE system and not just the radiator. Water will be coming from the block via the lower radiator hose. The motor needs to be hot enough to have the thermostat in the open position. (be sure the motor is cool to the touch before replacing the water with cold water). I go further than the manual and pull the thermostat before the first flushing (get a gasket before you remove it..really inexpensive $1 or so) and put the housing back on w/o the thermostat for the first flushing and repeat it several times. That way you don't have to wait for the thermo to open. If the drain water starts looking perfectly clear, you may have it clean. I think a real check is to remove the drain plug on the manifold side of the motor and see if water flows freely there. If it does not, then dig some rust out spray water in until you feel it is clean. All of this forced water is done when the motor is cool to the touch. After you go through this clean out, you may see the benefit of $3 can of water pump and rust inhibitor. After you get it clean, I would drain as recommended in the OM adding antifreeze and rust inhibitor each year and you may never see rust again.
 
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