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Apple Hydraulics for M/C re-sleeve
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Don Elliott
Obi Wan
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I sent Apple an empty body for the master cylinder for my 1958 TR3A. I had them put a sleeve inside in. I think the new sleeve was brass. When I got it back, I couldn't assemble the piston. I had to ream it out myself. Luckily a have a neighbour who has all the tools I need and which I don't have. He had the right reamer and even did the job. I have had no issues since I put it in about 25,000 miles ago (around 2003).
So make sure that you send the piston for the master cylinder. Call them to ask if they will ream the bore of the new sleeve to match your piston.
So make sure that you send the piston for the master cylinder. Call them to ask if they will ream the bore of the new sleeve to match your piston.
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AweMan
Jedi Knight
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I sent mine {It is a dual clutch/Brake M.C.} for the 56 Tr3 to Apple. The price seemed fair, they answered all of my questions in a timely manor, the turn around time was great. I cant say much about longevity as I havnt installed it yet!
The questions I had were brass sleeves versus stainless steel ones. I ended up getting brass.
Hope this helps
The questions I had were brass sleeves versus stainless steel ones. I ended up getting brass.
Hope this helps
Don Elliott
Obi Wan
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Notice in the phot above how the pipes all come out straight up. This was like this on the later TR2s all the TR3s and some of the early TR3As like mine. Later, S-T put on master cylinders that were superceded by a new design where one of the two pipes comes out on an angle. It was about 1962 that I had to buy a new M/C from S-T and I got one that was inclined. I lost pints at judged concours events because one (the inclined one) was wrong.
See how mine looked from 1965 or so till I restored my TR3A from 1987 to 1990. Since then, I've driven 102,000 miles and kept it all very clean compared to before when it had 80,300 miles from new.
And those are all the same original parts except for the clutch M/C.
See how mine looked from 1965 or so till I restored my TR3A from 1987 to 1990. Since then, I've driven 102,000 miles and kept it all very clean compared to before when it had 80,300 miles from new.
And those are all the same original parts except for the clutch M/C.
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Don Elliott
Obi Wan
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I just had another look at my two photos above and I think I see why my wiper blades don't come to the spot position as they should. I think I'll rotate the round top cap half a turn so that the orange wire comes out at the 1 o'clock position as it was before I took it apart in 1987.
martx-5
Yoda
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Interesting about the wipers. When I set up mine, the best spot turned out pretty close to the one o'clock position...probably closer to twelve-thirty. Initially, it was almost right at twelve, but once I put the wiper blades on and had some added friction, I had to move it closer to one. 
If yours are in good shape make sure they rebuild and return yours. Pay the extra amount or wait the extra time. They did mine some time back and they were like the one in Dons picture. They had the connection that went straight up. These are getting very hard to find. I mentioned that I wanted mine rebuilt because they were the early type and the person I spoke to knew nothing about the the type that went straight up. Also if you don't have yours rebuilt they may have more pitting and just don't look as good.
I had them rebuild my shocks later on and did not request that they rebuild mine because in $10.00 more per shock. The ones I got back had the mounting holes ovaled out.
Don it's kind of odd because mine was set up the same way yours was. I just figured that they replaced it sometime down the line with the later type. After researce I found that they should both be straight up, so I found one that was straight. At least I think they both should be.
I had them rebuild my shocks later on and did not request that they rebuild mine because in $10.00 more per shock. The ones I got back had the mounting holes ovaled out.
Don it's kind of odd because mine was set up the same way yours was. I just figured that they replaced it sometime down the line with the later type. After researce I found that they should both be straight up, so I found one that was straight. At least I think they both should be.
Don Elliott
Obi Wan
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Keith - For a TR3, they should both be straight up. Like mine were when I bought my 1958 TR3A brand new and like you see in the "nicer" photo above taken at VTR in 2007 where I was awarded 2nd in the "early TR3A class" with 95,000 miles since I finished my restoration - but only 1000 miles after I had it re-sprayed.
When they assembled my TR3A in February, 1958 the stock bin still had M/Cs like for your TR3 and it was only later (maybe a few months) that the bin was empty and the newer style was adopted to supercede the ones we have.
When they assembled my TR3A in February, 1958 the stock bin still had M/Cs like for your TR3 and it was only later (maybe a few months) that the bin was empty and the newer style was adopted to supercede the ones we have.