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Anyone using a MaxJax on a BN2 ?
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Legal Bill
Jedi Knight
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Randy Forbes
Yoda
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Those scare me.
bighealeysource
Luke Skywalker
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I'm like Randy, I could just see my concrete garage slab cracking along the line of the anchors about the time I'm sitting under the Healey. Always thought maybe I should be buried in it but not under it !
Mike
Mike
Ed_K
Jedi Knight
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Don't the full height lifts of the same design also just fasten to the concrete floor ? It would seem to me that the lower height lift would put less stress on the mounting points than the full size units ?
My neighbor installed one of those lifts and it works like a dream. He has a 31 ford hot rod.
They sell different sized inserts to go between the arms and the car. You would have to be careful to put something between the lifting inserts and the car frame, just like when you use a floor jack.
Ed
My neighbor installed one of those lifts and it works like a dream. He has a 31 ford hot rod.
They sell different sized inserts to go between the arms and the car. You would have to be careful to put something between the lifting inserts and the car frame, just like when you use a floor jack.
Ed
Randy Forbes
Yoda
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Unless I'm mistaken, the maxjac is portable; does it even use anchors? That's what I mean about being scared (if it didn't...).
The full height one (in my garage) is secured with five (5) 3/4" diameter anchors for each column. Initial torque was about 125Lbs-Ft, and they recommend they be retightened, which I do about once a year. The first time I retightened them, the nuts "moved" a smidge, but I haven't been able to budge them since.
I'm still undecided if I'll take this lift to Florida, or leave it for the next owner of this house. If the house buyer wants it, it will be completely detached from the sale of the house, and I will accept no liability for its use. I;ve got my eye on a couple of better ones (ALI Certified).
The full height one (in my garage) is secured with five (5) 3/4" diameter anchors for each column. Initial torque was about 125Lbs-Ft, and they recommend they be retightened, which I do about once a year. The first time I retightened them, the nuts "moved" a smidge, but I haven't been able to budge them since.
I'm still undecided if I'll take this lift to Florida, or leave it for the next owner of this house. If the house buyer wants it, it will be completely detached from the sale of the house, and I will accept no liability for its use. I;ve got my eye on a couple of better ones (ALI Certified).
Legal Bill
Jedi Knight
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Randy, I thought the same as you, but when I looked at the site, I learned they are anchored. It is portable because you can detach the unit from the anchor and roll it away. I'm not sure what hardware you disconnect. If it is the anchors themselves, I would be concerned. I think once you have the anchors in place and tightened, you want to leave them alone.
healeynut
Jedi Knight
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I have a max jax. You have anchors in the floor, which the towers bolt to.
You are supposed to have a minimum 4" slab of high pressure concrete, or failing that, a 12" concrete anchor. It is all specified in the instructions, it is all very safe but your garage may require some retrofitting if not poured properly. Most modern homes would have the proper concrete in the garage.
The system is very safe and frankly much safer than a jack / Jack stands which are not anchored to the floor.
The whole system is built to a standard worthy of use in a professional shop.
If for whatever reason the system would fail, you would get so much advanced notice with noise, cracking concrete, wobbling car, that you would have plenty of time to get out. And because you aren't lying on your back doing the work, your ability to get out quickly would be easy.
I mean, I know of three second hand stories of LBC owners getting crushed under their cars while lying on their backs with the car up on jack stands?
No thanks, I'll take the Max Jax.
Alan
You are supposed to have a minimum 4" slab of high pressure concrete, or failing that, a 12" concrete anchor. It is all specified in the instructions, it is all very safe but your garage may require some retrofitting if not poured properly. Most modern homes would have the proper concrete in the garage.
The system is very safe and frankly much safer than a jack / Jack stands which are not anchored to the floor.
The whole system is built to a standard worthy of use in a professional shop.
If for whatever reason the system would fail, you would get so much advanced notice with noise, cracking concrete, wobbling car, that you would have plenty of time to get out. And because you aren't lying on your back doing the work, your ability to get out quickly would be easy.
I mean, I know of three second hand stories of LBC owners getting crushed under their cars while lying on their backs with the car up on jack stands?
No thanks, I'll take the Max Jax.
Alan
Randy Forbes
Yoda
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Thank you for clarifying that (the anchors); now I know :wink:
Ed_K
Jedi Knight
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The anchors are flush with the top of the concrete. All you do is unbolt the tower to floor mounting bolts after removing the arms. Once the bolts have been removed, the towers tilt over a bit onto the built in wheels so you can roll it out of the way to store them. My neighbor bought some quick disconnect fittings for the hydraulics so disconnecting the power unit from the towers is a snap.
....
I want one but have to wait until I save enough for a new/extra section in my garage door so it will hang close to the ceiling and then another 1800 for the lift.
....
I want one but have to wait until I save enough for a new/extra section in my garage door so it will hang close to the ceiling and then another 1800 for the lift.