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Anyone remove their handbrake assembly on BN2,etc

bighealeysource

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Thinking of getting my handbrake assembly rechromed. Know I will have to get access to the mounting bolt from inside the driveshaft tunnel but was wondering if other than that is it pretty simple to remove and more importantly, put back on ? This is one of those winter projects that do not want to start and find out I should have followed the ancient principle of "if it aint broke don't fix it".
Thanks,
Mike
 
bighealeysource said:
Thinking of getting my handbrake assembly rechromed. Know I will have to get access to the mounting bolt from inside the driveshaft tunnel but was wondering if other than that is it pretty simple to remove and more importantly, put back on ? This is one of those winter projects that do not want to start and find out I should have followed the ancient principle of "if it aint broke don't fix it".
Thanks,
Mike
Funny you should mention this job. I was told that the last thing I could remove from my car was the Handbrake and the first thing to install is the Handbrake. It might sound a little farfetched, but there's some truth to this litle job as there's a sequence to it. It was much easier to install and replace with no engine/ transmission or driveshaft in the way!

I had reinstalled my Handbrake back in my car after I got my chassis back from Jule Enterprises and after looking at the quality of my restored chassis with its base-coat, clear-coat finish I decided to remove the Handbrake and have it chromed. I am really glad I did it because the new interior would be downstaged by the old Handbrake chrome finish. I used a Plater in Toledo, Ohio that did a fantastic job and quick turn-around and resonable price(IMHO). My rechromed Handbrake is also superior in finish to the original.
 
Handbrake on a BN4 is very easy- remove cable clevis pin at the axle end, remove RH seat, remove trans tunnel, remove front clevis pin inside tunnel next to driveshaft, remove two screws holding handbrake mechanism and that's it. Should take less than an hour.

Might even be possible to avoid removing the trans tunnel by pulling the mechanism through the hole enough to undo the nut that holds the lever on or perhaps even get the clevis pin out.

Might pay to check the cable condition at the front end. Mine had broken most of the wires because the POs had been pushing the brake lever down to compensate for a seized cable and this had caused it to buckle under compression right behind the handbrake lever mechanism.

Andy.
 
Thanks Andy and Patrick ! Hope I can do it without removing the trans tunnel as that is a pain in the rear. Think the whole thing should be the same on a BN2 as a BN4. Patrick, BTW, what did you have to pay to have the handle rechromed ?
Thanks,
Mike
 
bighealeysource said:
Thanks Andy and Patrick ! Hope I can do it without removing the trans tunnel as that is a pain in the rear. Think the whole thing should be the same on a BN2 as a BN4. Patrick, BTW, what did you have to pay to have the handle rechromed ?
Thanks,
Mike
$55.00 - show quality. A two week turn-around.
 
I replaced mine while I was doing a xmsn installation, but the picture sequence indicates that the trans was back in place, though the driveshaft may have been still undone, for a little extra swinging room.

Weren't you planning a little gearbox work over the winter too...?

IMG_7719.jpg
 
Mike,
I think the 100 handbrake system must be a little different to the sixes. I believe the transmission tunnel will have to be lifted. Once you have access to the prop-shaft part of the tunnel, there is a locknut which holds the shaft of the handbrake lever onto the short lever that is attached to the cable. When the cable has been released from the shaft undo the two screws that hold the ratchet segment to the tunnel and out she comes. The propshaft will be in the way but you should be able to work around it.
 
richberman said:
Patrick,
Can you post the name and contact info of that chromer? You can PM it. I need a good chromer.
thanks,
rich
I used:

Al'S Polishing & Plating Shop, Inc.
1615 Laskey Road
Toledo, Ohio 43612
(419) 476-8857

I paid $50 plus $6 shipping.

They took less than 2 weeks!
I got the source from Randy Forbes.

Be sure to take pics of your dissasembly! I sent the handle and the button to them. They plated the whole handle and the finishing done was show quality. When reinstalling, be sure to seal that 1/4" gap in the tunnel area mounting because that's where a lot of hot air comes in from.
 

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