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Wedge Anyone here have a TR8?
- Thread starter tdskip
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"Let me count the ways!" I've got one and love it.
Number one enemy, as in all cars, is rust. Watch especially the shock towers and all the places where joints were made in the metal. The later fuel injected models had more "oomph", but the earlier ones can do much better with a new manifold and a four barrel of your choice.
A great resource is Piggot's book, Original Triumph TR7 and TR8; lots of good info there, including trouble areas to look out for.
Let me know if I can help.
Mickey
Number one enemy, as in all cars, is rust. Watch especially the shock towers and all the places where joints were made in the metal. The later fuel injected models had more "oomph", but the earlier ones can do much better with a new manifold and a four barrel of your choice.
A great resource is Piggot's book, Original Triumph TR7 and TR8; lots of good info there, including trouble areas to look out for.
Let me know if I can help.
Mickey
swift6
Yoda
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[ QUOTE ]
Tips and suggestions on a potential purchase?
[/ QUOTE ]
Try looking at the World Wide Wedge web page. Its run and supported by the TR8 Car Club of America. They have a Buyers Guide on the page that can be a tremendous help. There is also a TR8 Mailing list that can be quite helpful. Any details on the TR8 you are looking at?
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Tips and suggestions on a potential purchase?
[/ QUOTE ]
Try looking at the World Wide Wedge web page. Its run and supported by the TR8 Car Club of America. They have a Buyers Guide on the page that can be a tremendous help. There is also a TR8 Mailing list that can be quite helpful. Any details on the TR8 you are looking at?
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
tomshobby
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An old trick that really works. If you have a rust problem or want to stop one from happening apply with a brush, rag, or spray used engine oil (fresh oil will not work) on all underside surfaces, frame, under side of body panels, or any place you might be concerned about like the inside of your doors. Let the car sit over a place where the oil can drip off over the winter. It will stop rust cold and protect for several years. It is great for seams because it will penetrate into them.
Granted this is not for your trailer queen, but it works great even on small rust spots or places where your "waiting-to-be restored" car needs protection so it does not get worse before you are ready to do your restoration work.
Just do not let it get on your upholstry.
Granted this is not for your trailer queen, but it works great even on small rust spots or places where your "waiting-to-be restored" car needs protection so it does not get worse before you are ready to do your restoration work.
Just do not let it get on your upholstry.
G
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[ QUOTE ]
An old trick that really works. If you have a rust problem or want to stop one from happening apply with a brush, rag, or spray used engine oil (fresh oil will not work) on all underside surfaces, frame, under side of body panels, or any place you might be concerned about like the inside of your doors. Let the car sit over a place where the oil can drip off over the winter. It will stop rust cold and protect for several years. It is great for seams because it will penetrate into them.
Granted this is not for your trailer queen, but it works great even on small rust spots or places where your "waiting-to-be restored" car needs protection so it does not get worse before you are ready to do your restoration work.
Just do not let it get on your upholstry.
[/ QUOTE ]
Gee, that's odd. My TR6 came from the factory with an automatic chassis oiler. I believe they call it the "drive train".
An old trick that really works. If you have a rust problem or want to stop one from happening apply with a brush, rag, or spray used engine oil (fresh oil will not work) on all underside surfaces, frame, under side of body panels, or any place you might be concerned about like the inside of your doors. Let the car sit over a place where the oil can drip off over the winter. It will stop rust cold and protect for several years. It is great for seams because it will penetrate into them.
Granted this is not for your trailer queen, but it works great even on small rust spots or places where your "waiting-to-be restored" car needs protection so it does not get worse before you are ready to do your restoration work.
Just do not let it get on your upholstry.
[/ QUOTE ]
Gee, that's odd. My TR6 came from the factory with an automatic chassis oiler. I believe they call it the "drive train".
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OK - to get back on track here...
There's an 8 on ebay - just listed in Florida:
https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1980-Triu...1QQcmdZViewItem
Looks pretty good...
Mickey
There's an 8 on ebay - just listed in Florida:
https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1980-Triu...1QQcmdZViewItem
Looks pretty good...
Mickey
G
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The ground effects package makes it kinda bling.
I personally like the fake-woody bug convertible.
The floor mats are a must-keep.
What did I eat for breakfast this morning?
I personally like the fake-woody bug convertible.
The floor mats are a must-keep.
What did I eat for breakfast this morning?
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Whatever it was, kin I have some? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Mickey
Mickey
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Good to hear from you, Barry.
We Wedgeheads need to "unite"!
Mickey
We Wedgeheads need to "unite"!
Mickey
OK - so here is the deal. I spoke to the seller today and got more details about the TR8.
He is the third owner, car has been in Cali for at least 15+ years. Was most recently up in Sacramento, which isn't a bad place for a TR to have lived.
Drive train is solid, with a recently rebuilt engine complete with receipts. Carbs need tuning, but runs strong with no smoking or abnormal oil consumption.
Shocks were recently replaced but car still "wallows a bit", might just be bushings or possibly the shocks need to be firmed up.
Car has production paint quality spray several years ago, with iffy prep before being sprayed. Some dings not addressed, nothing major. Little rust and nothing structural or that needs immediate attention.
Interior is worn, but OK as a driver for now. Carpets, trim panels and seats are faded but OK for a driver.
I'm going to see and drive her tomorrow, and will take a bunch of pictures.
Seller is firm at $4,500.
He is the third owner, car has been in Cali for at least 15+ years. Was most recently up in Sacramento, which isn't a bad place for a TR to have lived.
Drive train is solid, with a recently rebuilt engine complete with receipts. Carbs need tuning, but runs strong with no smoking or abnormal oil consumption.
Shocks were recently replaced but car still "wallows a bit", might just be bushings or possibly the shocks need to be firmed up.
Car has production paint quality spray several years ago, with iffy prep before being sprayed. Some dings not addressed, nothing major. Little rust and nothing structural or that needs immediate attention.
Interior is worn, but OK as a driver for now. Carpets, trim panels and seats are faded but OK for a driver.
I'm going to see and drive her tomorrow, and will take a bunch of pictures.
Seller is firm at $4,500.
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TDSkip -
You have a PM.
Mickey
You have a PM.
Mickey
My best advice to you would be to spend as much as you can afford on one now. The really high end ones are not much more money than the ones that need work. Even if you get one for free, that needed paint, tires, top interior, some mechanical, (you know the drill) it would be cheaper to buy one done. There is no money to be saved in buying a driver and fixing as you go. I know of a brown coupe that is essentially a new car. It has a 4 liter pumping about 240 HP, a tan leather interior, and new 15 inch panasports and tires. This car can be had for under 10 grand. A few weeks ago there was an orange, original coupe on ebay that went for somewhere around 7K. A huge difference in cars for only 3K. I also know of a really nice aqua conv with a 300HP+ 4.6, quaife rear end, and canvas top, for $10,600. The motor alone is worth north of $7K. I just saw a $4,000 paint job, and I wasn't impressed. In Cali, you have to be careful with the smog laws, so a highly modded car is probably out of the question.
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When you test drive it make sure the headlights, all the elctrics actually, work without problems. I understand the electrics on 7's/8's can be real nightmarish if someone has mucked with them.
[/ QUOTE ]
My buddy over here is in the process of rebuilding his TR8 coupe. This will make his 8th or 9th rebuild of an LBC, and he still has them all. The point is, on this one he is in the process of improving the electrics by rebuilding everything from front to rear to super high quality specs and simplifying the whole car. All his other Triumphs and Lotus' are restored, this is his first Wedge and he fully understands the problems with the electricals. Essentially he will have a 60's era muscle car, with relays only where important. His work is fanatically clean. Can't wait to see the final result. He will tear the engine down completely as well. The good thing is he started with a rust-free car.
When you test drive it make sure the headlights, all the elctrics actually, work without problems. I understand the electrics on 7's/8's can be real nightmarish if someone has mucked with them.
[/ QUOTE ]
My buddy over here is in the process of rebuilding his TR8 coupe. This will make his 8th or 9th rebuild of an LBC, and he still has them all. The point is, on this one he is in the process of improving the electrics by rebuilding everything from front to rear to super high quality specs and simplifying the whole car. All his other Triumphs and Lotus' are restored, this is his first Wedge and he fully understands the problems with the electricals. Essentially he will have a 60's era muscle car, with relays only where important. His work is fanatically clean. Can't wait to see the final result. He will tear the engine down completely as well. The good thing is he started with a rust-free car.