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Anyone else get rubbing on their VTO rims?

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Just mounted the rear rim from Hap and they fit great, but the driver side front tie-rod was scraping the inner rim surface. The front end was unloaded at when I was installing them.

Anyone else experience this and what did you do to solve it?
 
Seems to me there was a thread on this, wasn't there?
Earlier spindle or something?
Foggy memory......
 
Did some Google searches and it appears that needing a 5mm spacers to the front to clear the steering arms isn't that uncommon. Hap - got any spacers or ideas?
 
this is what Edd hamilton did with his VTO rims, "I ended up getting the Panasport wanna-be wheels, which I think look better than the real panasports, with Sumitomo 175/70 tires. So far so good, with only one minor clearance issue with the disc brake conversion. The castle nut was too tall and rubbed the rim, so I changed it to a lower profile nylock and that took car of it."
Scott in CA
 
Some one had this problem and IIRC it was traced to having tie rod ends from a drum brake car installed on disc brake spindles, or vice versa...

I've had no problems, but there isn't even clearance for tape weights on the rim.
 
Skip, it appears that not all castings are the same on MG parts, look and see where the rub is, if it's the castle nut you can do what Ed did or run a tick of wheel spacer, if you need a wheel spacer Winner Circle, www.spridget.com has some nice ones that fit our cars. This does not happen on every car, just every once in awhile you see it, same thing with MGB and outer tie rods with the 14" wheels on them, not common, but you do see it from time to time. If I can help, give me a call at the shop.
 
I had the same thing happen with my minator rims. I switched to a nyloc nut and ground down the threads on the TRE.
 
I tightened up the nyloc, and ground down the threads to the top. On one side I still needed about 15 thousandths more clearance so I took the nyloc off and shortened the nut. reinstalled it, the ground down the threads for clearance. That was almost 10 years ago, and everything is still fine.
 
Yep, just run down to the hardware store and get a low profile nylock nut and a thin washer to replace the castle nut. That will get you a few millimeters of clearance.
 
OK - got the low profile nylock on there and I'm good on the rim now. So I just need to move the wheel weights now.

Thanks guys.
 
Where do the wheel weights go now? On the inside rim? Anyone have a picture, as I get my wheels tomorrow!.
Scott in CA
 
Best to test fit on your car and mark the area where there is no room for weights, then tell the guy balancing them to stick them on the inside where needed, but avoid the marked area. This may mean that they have to use a few more weights, but on new wheels the stick on ones should stay put.
 
+1 - just make sure they go away from the lip that faces the drum/rotor. Or, external mount wheel weight are an option.
 
smaceng said:
Where do the wheel weights go now? On the inside rim? Anyone have a picture, as I get my wheels tomorrow!.
Scott in CA
Click to expand...


On some of the the tighter fitments, 13" on Spridgets and 14" on MGB come to mind, you need to move the tape on weight a bit more to the inboard side for clearence, this is prety common with any alloy wheel on these cars, with the stock wheel folks just uese rim edge hammer on weight, so not issue, but on alloy wheels folks tend to hide the weight and use tape on weight on the inside. Yes as mentioned always a good idea to test fit a wheel before mounting tires, even those most alloy wheels go on most cars without issue, you may need to tweak a bit to get everything sorted out, of course one way to avoid all this is get the new 14x5.5 Retro 4 for the Spridgets, like Gundy and Trevor :smile:, same deal for the MGBs, outer tie rod clearence with 14" alloy wheels is such a concern, they even make a compact outer tie rod end referred to as the "alloy wheel" tie rod end, and the weight has to be shifted inboard on them as well, but not a issue on a 15" on a MGB. I had to do the same thing you guys are doing 20 years ago to get a 13x5.5 Minilites to clear my steering arms.
 
Hi guys - thanks for the ideas and support.

I had the weights moved in board, am using short profile nylock and thought I was all set. Mounted the fronts, spun them freely with front end of the car in the air. Lowered her, started her up, into reverse and SCRAPPPPPING. Crap.

Just the passenger side now. Crud.
 
Would installing 14" wheels on a bugeye solve this problem? I haven't ordered my wheels yet and if 14s will fit ok I'll get an extra 1/2"? My existing tierod ends are ground down and still rub every now and then.
Thanks, Rut
 
you can use regular weights, just not tape weights.
 
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