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Anybody with trips......HELP

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Why, after my car drives around for maybe 15 minutes of sporty driving, the darn engine will "bog" when I accelerate hard? To the point that I have to actually baby it to get it home.

Timing: 8* BTDC centrifugal advance.
New dizzy components, including Pertronix (don't say a word, Paul.)

Does this sound like fuel or electrical?

I may have to drive to the show Saturday at about 45mph.

Plugs were really white so I enriched the mixture a bit.

I just checked all my valves recently, on target, no broken springs.

Any suggestions???
 
Do you have the CDSE Strombergs? They are identified by an oblong attachment w/plastic cover on the side, & the addition of a "starter box" doodad.

It sounds like it's having a problem after warming up. Does it smell like it's running rich? Possibly the thermostatic valves in the CDSE's aren't opening.

When I last rebuilt my 150s, I found a page on how to set the adjuster on the bimetallic stip of the thermostatic valves on CDSE's somewhere on the net: Put them in water being warmed on the stove & watch for them to move at X degrees. Uselessly, I don't recall the value of X or the location of the web page.
 
Bill, I won't touch my ignition right now. My Pertronix setup is running so well, that I don't want to install the newly rebuilt distributor sitting on my workbench.

Sounds to me like ignition since carbs weren't too lean before you took it down.

My only difference with yours (except that I don't have my trips yet) is that I run at 14-16 BTDC at 850RPM.

Did you look at the timing wheel with a light on it to see what your total advance is at say, 3500RPM? It should be about 34 degrees at that point and should move smoothly, up and down.

Just check it to make sure nothing is sticking in the centrifugal system. It has to be something that you changed, because it wasn't there before or you would have mentioned it.

Also are the wires to the coil OK? Did you swap out the coil, just to test it when hot?
 
Brosky said:
My only difference with yours (except that I don't have my trips yet) is that I run at 14-16 BTDC at 850RPM.
Click to expand...

Man, Paul, that seems like a lot of advance at idle. Actually, mine doesn't seem to advance very much at rpm, what would that indicate? Chief mechanic helper not here, wife, so I will have to wait a while to check.
 
Bill, just to make sure it isn't the Pertronix unit, swap it out with the points setup and go for a drive. That worked for me once.
 
Alright, she just came home and sat in the driver's seat to help. Put the strobe on it (8* BTDC at 1000rpm idle) and had her rev it to a little over 3000 rpm. Only got it to advance on the crank wheel to about 16*. Not good.
What gives?
 
Bill, yours should snap up the scale (timing marks) as in crease the engine speed smoothly and steadily and come back the same way. Try advancing it to at least 12-14 and look at the total advance reading and let me know what you get.
 
PlaidMan said:
Bill, just to make sure it isn't the Pertronix unit, swap it out with the points setup and go for a drive. That worked for me once.
Click to expand...

Points did the same thing.......no difference.

(Are you going to the show on Saturday?? I may be there in an Accord!)
 
Also check the magnetic pickup that it fits tightly on the Distributor shaft.I had one that would move enough to throw the timing off.
 
OK, missed your post. Sounds like a problem inside dizzy.

I'll overnight one my newly rebuilt's to you if it helps and it will get you to the show on time. They will have points however, but that's no big deal. If you need the lead to the coil, I have new ones here.

You can return it when yours get fixed.


distributor-23.jpg
 
Paul, at that much advance (14*), I cannot get the idle down (idle goes way, way up) and the advance doesn't go up much at rpm. Where can I catch a good vacuum to try vacuum advance off my bellows? Can I pull straight off the intake, that little small pipe that is currently blocked off, with a small diameter hose?
 
I may take my dizzy apart tonight an see if all the little springs are intact.


Called a mechanic wizard friend of mine (he had to ask what is a Triumph) that knows engines. When he started saying things like "broken valve spring, etc., I closed the phone.....
 
Brosky said:
OK, missed your post. Sounds like a problem inside dizzy.

I'll overnight one my newly rebuilt's to you if it helps and it will get you to the show on time. They will have points however, but that's no big deal. If you need the lead to the coil, I have new ones here.

You can return it when yours get fixed.
Click to expand...


Thanks, Paul, but that is excessive. I will figure it out, or coast to New Orleans.
 
No, you should pull from the bottom of the first or second carb, as in the stock setup. You do not want full manifold vacuum to dictate advance.

The idle will go up a lot as you advance the timing to where it needs to be. Then you have to adjust it back down to the idle that you need and check the timing again. It will probably need tweaked back up a hair and the idle will have to come back down. It may take two to three trips up and down the adjustment cycle to get it right. Not knowing your octane, try to get it at 12-14 max starting out.

The fact that you don't have much total, may be caused by where you are starting from.
 
Bottom, as the small (currently blocked off) vacuum line on each carb, right in front of the throttle shaft?

And how will the idle come down if I run it up to 12-15* BTDC and this makes the idle go crazy. At 8*, it idles well, even at 6* or close to 4*. Can't see how running it up so high can make it come down. We are talking about the difference between BTDC and ATDC....
 
Bill, are you running on the hot side? Sure sign of retarded timing, in conjunction with a lack of power/hestation when warmed up.
 
Bill, start with the car the way it is at idle, say 900 rpm, advance or retard disconnected, vacuum line plugged.

Look at timing with light and let's say it's at 8 BTDC. Take it up to 10 and lock it down. The rpm's just went up as well. Take them back down to 900 or 1000, whatever you feel comfortable with at idle.

Now look at the timing again. It's probably about 9. Move it up to 11 or 12. Idle will have gone up. Adjust it down and repeat until you are at 12-14 with idle at the ideal setting for your engine. You may actually find that it doesn't need to be so high when you get this set properly.

Standing by, Captain.
 
Could be the centrifical advance. Check the springs and weights to be sure they're moving freely.

David K.
 
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