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any tips on removing doors on 100-6
- Thread starter wolf
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bighealeysource
Luke Skywalker
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Hey Wolf,
From my experience, remove your doors by removing the machine screws that attach the door to the hinge pillar. Not sure what type of machine screws you might have in there but typically they are a phillips or pozi drive. Mine were phillips so just used a big ol' phillips screwdriver. I would loosen them all but leave in place until you have the door actually loose to the touch and then if you have a helper or an extra arm ( wouldn't it be handy if we all had a 3rd arm for projects like this !) just hold onto it and remove bottom first and then the top so you do not put too much stress on the hinge pillar. Should be pretty easy once you get them loose. Use a anti sieze lubricant of some kind first to see if that helps. I have used heat from a propane torch to get an extremely resistant nut or screw to come loose so you might consider that if all else fails. Good luck !
Regards,
Mike
From my experience, remove your doors by removing the machine screws that attach the door to the hinge pillar. Not sure what type of machine screws you might have in there but typically they are a phillips or pozi drive. Mine were phillips so just used a big ol' phillips screwdriver. I would loosen them all but leave in place until you have the door actually loose to the touch and then if you have a helper or an extra arm ( wouldn't it be handy if we all had a 3rd arm for projects like this !) just hold onto it and remove bottom first and then the top so you do not put too much stress on the hinge pillar. Should be pretty easy once you get them loose. Use a anti sieze lubricant of some kind first to see if that helps. I have used heat from a propane torch to get an extremely resistant nut or screw to come loose so you might consider that if all else fails. Good luck !
Regards,
Mike
Randy Forbes
Yoda
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The hammer-driven type of impact screwdriver might be of benefit too.
Another trick is to use a hammer to "seat" your screwdriver into the head of the fastener; it will "crush" down any accumulation of paint & debris, as well as give the threads (rust) a bit of a knocking to break them loose.
Another trick is to use a hammer to "seat" your screwdriver into the head of the fastener; it will "crush" down any accumulation of paint & debris, as well as give the threads (rust) a bit of a knocking to break them loose.
Thanks for the advice , the screw heads look to be phillips or poze . As far as I know they have never been removed . So heat and inpact driver both maybe needed . That was a good tip to get all the bolts loose before removing any and removing by starting at the bottom , I would have just started taking out from the top .
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Biggest mistake is to think the screws will release from the get-go. If you try it that way, you'll only succeed in rounding out the screw heads with no hope of extracting them. Instead, heat the heck out of them from the beginning with a Mapp torch and make sure the screw head slots are cleaned out to give you maximum grip. Then hit them with the impact driver. If all else fails, drill out the heads with smallest bit you can, remove the doors and start treating the screws with penetrating oil, (Kroill, PB Blaster, etc ... Not WD40) followed by heat, then grab the stub with vise grips and pray. Otherwise, have fun drilling out the screw and re-tapping.
Bob Claffie
Jedi Knight
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Too obvious but--- be sure to disconnect the door opening limiter (about half way down the front pillar) first. Very awkward to disconnect while the door is dangling in mid air. Bob
ahealey1004
Senior Member
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hey Wolf- one tip a restorer friend of mine mentioned, but I have not tried, to keep your doors aligned upon reassembly is to drill a small hole through the hinge face and actually through the metal where the hinge attaches to the body. I assume you'd need to drill 2 holes per hinge, probably in a diagonal pattern. This assumes your door fit is good prior to loosening the screws. Then, as long as you don't remove the hinges from the doors themselves, upon reattaching the doors to the body, you place drill bits through the holes you've drilled and these help you find the original mounting location and previous (good) panel fit.
Again, I haven't tried it, but it makes sense to me. I'm curious if anyone else has heard of this?
Good luck!
Again, I haven't tried it, but it makes sense to me. I'm curious if anyone else has heard of this?
Good luck!
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^^^ Works great, whether called "indexing" or "registering", it works a treat. If you are going to remove your bonnet, drill the index holes on the hinges. Makes re-installation a cinch.
Randy Forbes
Yoda
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It's a good tip; been doing it for decades :wink:ahealey1004 said:
Johnny
Darth Vader
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Not sure of your goal here but maybe you can just remove the hinges from the door first leaving the hinges on the pillar.
It sounds like a good idea to mark where the hinges go with a scribe, but if your replacing floor pans, door sills etc. it won't matter as you'll most likley have to adjust the hinges anyway.
It sounds like a good idea to mark where the hinges go with a scribe, but if your replacing floor pans, door sills etc. it won't matter as you'll most likley have to adjust the hinges anyway.
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Yes, I remove my hinges from the doors and leave the hinges attached to the pillar. I think those screws tend to get less corroded.
andybj8
Jedi Hopeful
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One point to bear in mind is that there is a floating tapped thick metal plate captivated within the 'A' post (the pillar that the hinges are fixed to), loosening the pozi screws allows the door to drop which can catch the wing etc. The plate is used for adjustment when aliging the door.