Any tips on how to bleed brakes??

[TR6BILL]

Now that I have changed all four flex hoses at each wheel to braided hoses, and have also changed out all my brake fluid, the task of completely bleeding my brakes has always caused me consternation. I just cannot seem to get it right. I did the wife-on-the-brake-pedal routine (she did it while reading a book) and still think I have air in the system. I threw away my Mighty Vac with glee! Hated that thing! What is a surefire technique for bleeding brakes?

 

[BobbyD]

Bill,
I recently posted the same question to the Triumph & 6-Pack Mail Lists. I was doing it one way and an article in Hemmings did it a different way. The responses were almost 100% in agreement with Hemmings. The order for doing the bleeding is RR, LR, RF and LF. You start with the brake farthest away and work to the closest brake from the M/C. I just installed Speed Bleeders but haven't done the bleeding yet. I'll let you know how they work out. Here's the procedure:

The Hemmings procedure starts with the bleeder CLOSED, while the assistant gently pumps 5 or 6 times and then holds the pedal down. At this point you OPEN the bleeder until the fluid stops flowing and then close the bleeder. And repeat until there's no more air bubbles.

 

[70herald]

speedy bleeders make life real easy. That said I don't have them on my car since I never got around to ordering them.
1. I always put a block of wood under the brake peddle to avoid bottoming out the cylinder. It really isn't good for the master cylinder.

With two people, on person is in charge of the peddle, the other in charge of the bleeder.
Gently push down peddle - open bleeder. CLOSE bleeder and then release the brake peddle. Repeat until brake fluid comes out clean and bubble free. Now go on to the next wheel.
You close the bleeder to make sure that no air is sucked back in at the brake side. speedy bleeders will do the open/close bit in their own which is why they are somewhat easier.

Make sure that the reservoir is kept full! If you start sucking in air. you return to step 1.

 

[tomgt6]

Another way to do this if your having issues is to fill the master and even have extra bottle of fluid going into it. Then crack a bleeder so it just dribbles and let it drain for several hours or even over night. Always do the rr, lr, rf, lf or what ever order the manual says. This is advise a friend of mine has given me for cars that just don't want to bleed well. (He manages a auto shop)He says he does this from time to time and almost always get perfect results. I think what happens is the fluid for some reason gets to much air in it when you pour it into the master.

 

[DrEntropy]

Gunson Eezibleed.

Pumping the M/C with the bleeders closed after a system has been "opened" will only shuttle fluid back and forth (just compressing/uncompressing the air in the system), and also 'emulsify' air into the fluid at the M/C. TINY bubbles which later aggregate into larger ones.

If it's to be the "two man operation" then open the bleeder furthest from the M/C and slowly stroke the pedal with the "Open, push... closed, release" routine until fluid seems to discharge steadily on each depression. THEN you can 'pump' the pedal a few times before each opening of the bleeder. Repeat on the other three ends.

Bill: It all gets MUCH easier with Gunson's tool. It only takes 5PSI or so, BTW. More and you'll have a real mess on your hands. That M/C lid "leak" you've mentioned before would have me watching lip seal at the M/C too.

 

[vagt6]

I ditto Doc on the Gunston's tool. Really the cat's meow as far as brake bleeds are concerned.

Once you get the proper technique down, with or without a Speed Bleeder or Gunston tool, it's not hard.

It's also important to train your wife properly on the brake pedal technique. But just be sure there's no payback . . .

 

[tomshobby]

Shirley has a huge desire to ride in our six so she is a very willing participant when it is time to bleed brakes. Or lend a hand for other things if needed.

I agree with the longest line first. The only thing I do different when using the pedal method is to do some bleeding in the rear and when I feel it is enough to get past the front line connection I do a couple bleeds on the front to, at least in my mind, prevent air from backing up and getting in the lines to the rear. Or I go the above mentioned process twice for the same reason.

 

[TR3driver]

I think what happens is the fluid for some reason gets to much air in it when you pour it into the master.

Which is supposedly more of a problem with DOT 5 fluid. Personally, I just dump it in, then choose that time to take a break and give it time to breathe.

Also in favor of not pumping up the brakes before opening the valve. Just a single stroke will do fine, and doesn't spray fluid around so much.

As far as payback, I make it a point to take care of a "honey dew" shortly afterwards. Last night I got help fishing the control head wire through the stator tube, and then spent a half hour helping repot some succulants.

 

[TR3driver]

Worth noting perhaps that other problems can feel like air in the lines. Dad owned a 70 Peugeot that always seemed to have air in the brakes; but after countless shops had done almost everything possible to the brakes (we even found that the brakes were the main reason the previous owner had sold it); I discovered that the front calipers were binding on the pad guide pins. The pins would flex under pressure, but spring back and spread the pistons. Poor adjustment or a soft line that is about to fail can also feel like air in the lines.

 

[tomshobby]

Or, rear shoes smaller radius than drum.

 

[PeterK]

I use a Motive pressure bleeder. Only drawback is the amount of fluid you need to fill it enough when you use it. So I usually take advantage of the new fluid and flush all corners and the clutch. Other than that, it works like a charm.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0h5bMoW-aw

 

[14dna]

One trick I've used is to fill a clear bottle with brake fluid.
run a hose from the bleeder to the bottle, open the bleeder and pump the brakes SLOWLY. this will push air out, and draw fluid back in.

Works for those times you are alone and need to get things done.

Hope this helps one or two of you guys.

Dave

 

[BobbyD]

I'm sticking with the Hemmings way I mentioned above if for no other reason then when Ted Schumacher reads the post and then emails me to tell me that the Hemmings way is the correct way.... I listen. Ted has probably forgotten more about maintaining LBCs than most of us will ever learn.....well definitely in my case

 

[RonMacPherson]

Bob, I agree, the only caveat I can add is that make sure you close the bleeder before the pedal pressure is released. i.e. pump up, holding down..open bleed screw, pedal will drop to the floor...close bleed screw.. repeat. Works on abs and non abs systems in GM, Honda, Acura, MB, Porsche, Ferrari, Lotus, Jensen Healey, Nissan, Mazda and a few others that I have worked on for the last 35 years..

 

[MDCanaday]

One option when you are having real problems with trapped air is to reverse bleed it with a large syringe.force the fluid into the open bleeder,as the reservoir fills pull up the excess into the syringe,and if clean, put it into the next bleeder.Always start at the rear(and have lots of beer!!)
MD(mad dog)

 

[foxtrapper]

Jar of clean(ish) fluid, little piece of clear hose. Put the hose on a bleeder, other end in the jar of fluid. Open the bleeder about 1/4-1/2 turn.

Sit patiently for about 5 minutes and you'll finally see fluid coming out. If you're impatent, you can push the brake pedal up and down (no need for two people).

Do it on all four corners, go around perhaps twice. Done.

 

[BobbyD]

Bob, I agree, the only caveat I can add is that make sure you close the bleeder before the pedal pressure is released.

Ron..... I just installed Speed Bleeders so they should take care of that for me.........but the way you describe it is how I've done it in the past. Thanks