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For sure. I also could swing that big hammer harder than I can now.
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Any recent experiences with rear leaf spring vendors?
- Thread starter shortsguy1
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For sure. I also could swing that big hammer harder than I can now.
OP
shortsguy1
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Thank you so much for the help. Right now, I am pretty intimidated by the job as both removal and installation seem very challenging. But it is better to go into the project knowing what may lay ahead. Thanks again.
What is the word we’re reaching for here? Conundrum?
I recently replaced fatigued and broken originals rear springs on my AH BJ7 with Moss items. Budget 3 hrs for removal and installation. Do one side at a time. An adjustable C-Clamp helps with installation process – closes gap between new spring and axle - as most U-bolts (stock or newer) have insufficient length. Snug up nuts equally and all should line up. If not, loosen one side and snug up the opposite until aligned, then snug up nuts equally again – like a slow rocking motion. If your rear springs are originals and never been removed, then this job will require more time as frame bolts will likely be frozen. If this is the case, then installation by a professional is suggested.
Result is a higher ride height - which in my situation is needed to help clear an angled driveway - and firmer ride. The springs have settled about ¼ to ½ inch and resulting in a ride height of 27in. as opposed to old originals at 24.5. The new ones also squeak when bounce tested, but spray lube should cure the noise. Some have opted to install various materials between the springs to quiet them down, but this, I’m told, could introduce odd handling characteristics.
Could you share Jule Frame test. Wondering if it involves jacking corners of the car and opening doors, bonnet, boot etc. with wheel(s) in the air. Gonzo
I recently replaced fatigued and broken originals rear springs on my AH BJ7 with Moss items. Budget 3 hrs for removal and installation. Do one side at a time. An adjustable C-Clamp helps with installation process – closes gap between new spring and axle - as most U-bolts (stock or newer) have insufficient length. Snug up nuts equally and all should line up. If not, loosen one side and snug up the opposite until aligned, then snug up nuts equally again – like a slow rocking motion. If your rear springs are originals and never been removed, then this job will require more time as frame bolts will likely be frozen. If this is the case, then installation by a professional is suggested.
Result is a higher ride height - which in my situation is needed to help clear an angled driveway - and firmer ride. The springs have settled about ¼ to ½ inch and resulting in a ride height of 27in. as opposed to old originals at 24.5. The new ones also squeak when bounce tested, but spray lube should cure the noise. Some have opted to install various materials between the springs to quiet them down, but this, I’m told, could introduce odd handling characteristics.
Could you share Jule Frame test. Wondering if it involves jacking corners of the car and opening doors, bonnet, boot etc. with wheel(s) in the air. Gonzo
OP
shortsguy1
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On the phone, Martin at Jule described a frame test which is described on their website as well:
"The easiest way to do this is to place a jack under the rear outrigger by the rear of the door, slide the jack under the chassis where the out rigger meets and jack the car up. Check your door gap, if it opens, the main rail structure is worn. Look at the front tire and rear tire, if they are resting well on the ground this will indicate the torque rigidity is failing."
I asked what qualifies as a door gap opening, and (while I don't have my notes in front of me) I believe he said if it grows 1/4", that would indicate a problem.
Also, he said that his springs come with longer U-bolts, so that makes installation somewhat easier than others have found. Also, someone earlier in this thread said they had to drill out a hole (I forget its name) to receive the spring center bolt, but I guess this is only an issue with early Healeys, and the BJ8 won't have to be modified in even this minor way.
He also mentioned that the arc of his springs will be different than other vendors, because they don't need to be preloaded. Some have expressed challenges with getting a standard new spring installed because it needed to be loaded during the install. I guess his springs, because they are a less arched shape, don't need to be forced in during installation.
Sorry if I sound like an advertisement. I don't know Martin at all, but his love of Healeys was clearly communicated during out conversation.
"The easiest way to do this is to place a jack under the rear outrigger by the rear of the door, slide the jack under the chassis where the out rigger meets and jack the car up. Check your door gap, if it opens, the main rail structure is worn. Look at the front tire and rear tire, if they are resting well on the ground this will indicate the torque rigidity is failing."
I asked what qualifies as a door gap opening, and (while I don't have my notes in front of me) I believe he said if it grows 1/4", that would indicate a problem.
Also, he said that his springs come with longer U-bolts, so that makes installation somewhat easier than others have found. Also, someone earlier in this thread said they had to drill out a hole (I forget its name) to receive the spring center bolt, but I guess this is only an issue with early Healeys, and the BJ8 won't have to be modified in even this minor way.
He also mentioned that the arc of his springs will be different than other vendors, because they don't need to be preloaded. Some have expressed challenges with getting a standard new spring installed because it needed to be loaded during the install. I guess his springs, because they are a less arched shape, don't need to be forced in during installation.
Sorry if I sound like an advertisement. I don't know Martin at all, but his love of Healeys was clearly communicated during out conversation.
bluegrass john
Senior Member
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I recently installed Martin's springs on my BJ8 after having springs that jacked my car to a ridiculous elevated position in the rear. Not much settling in five years so I decided on the JULE springs and found they looked much better on my car, the installation was not difficult and the ride is pretty good. On my car the rear wheel opening from the ground to the top of the wheel well is approximately 27 inches with the JULE springs. With the previous springs that were installed the opening was at least 29 inches! I personally believe the correct height on a phase 11 BJ measuring from the ground to the top of the opening should be approximately 28 inches. Although my BJ8 does sit more like a BJ7 or a phase 1 BJ8 the look is very good if not exactly correct. I would like to hear from someone who has installed a set from Denis Welch which is supposed to give the correct height for a BJ8 (what ever that is supposed to be). Just wanted to list the result of the spring change that I experienced with my car!! John
bluegrass john
Senior Member
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Keoke........... On my 1966 BJ8 the measurement you requested is 13 inches; although I have measured several BJ8's, one that is completely original with less than 30,000 miles at nearly 14 inches. I am curious as to what your BJ8 measures?
Thanks,
John
Thanks,
John
Hi after some research I purchased my rear leaf springs for my bj8 phase 2 from Rosedale road springs if memory serves me right this very long established firm made the originals along with other company no doubt and still had stock they fitted perfectly and are the correct height grand road . Haslingden Rosedale Lancashire bb4 5ha email. Sales@rossroadsprings.co.uk spring code 3048a,healey hope they are still there and this helps regards chris
Jeepster
Jedi Trainee
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I purchased a set of springs from one of the main UK based parts suppliers when I was looking for replacements for my BJ8 ph2.
On arrival they had a totally different curve when compared to the originals. So much so that I didn't even consider fitment as the rear end would have been way too high. So high that I did not believe the ride height would ever settle to near normal. Instead I sent my original springs for refurbishment where they also had a slight adjustment to the curve to make up for any sag that may have developed over the years.
Now fitted to the car and the ride height is pretty spot on.
when I first called the refurbishment company and explained my experience with the replacement parts, they warned of the poor quality of repro parts and advised that if original springs are not too far gone, a refurb will always be the better option. He may have been biased but the originals did look a lot better quality than any of the repro units I have come across.
On arrival they had a totally different curve when compared to the originals. So much so that I didn't even consider fitment as the rear end would have been way too high. So high that I did not believe the ride height would ever settle to near normal. Instead I sent my original springs for refurbishment where they also had a slight adjustment to the curve to make up for any sag that may have developed over the years.
Now fitted to the car and the ride height is pretty spot on.
when I first called the refurbishment company and explained my experience with the replacement parts, they warned of the poor quality of repro parts and advised that if original springs are not too far gone, a refurb will always be the better option. He may have been biased but the originals did look a lot better quality than any of the repro units I have come across.
D
Deleted member 19315
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As a side topic but related I have been refurbing the whole rear suspension on my 100/6 . No indication anything was or is adrift with the springs so they are going back...but before re-fitting sometime before Christmas I will clean them very carefully and wrap in Denso tape before string wrapping and linseed painting like old MG's used to be. It may keep out dirt and reduce associated wear, it may increase friction a tad but it will look very nice ...which of course is essential 
Andy
Andy
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shortsguy1
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Thanks everyone for all the information. Jeepster- do you remember which vendor you bought your springs from originally?
I have been continuing my quest to find other spring manufacturers and vendors.
Healey Surgeons sells 5 leaf springs that they buy from a UK company but they believe are made in India.
I plan to talk to Rossendale Road Springs late next week, so thanks for that lead Do8erman.
I also hadn't checked out BritishClassicCarParts.com, which sells high quality UK-built springs for our cars. Jon, at the company, has been very helpful in my quest for information. Their prices with shipping to the U.S. will be significantly less than Denis Welch or British Car Specialists, but as someone mentioned earlier, if there is a problem with the order, return shipping to the UK from California will not be trivial. They sell a 7 leaf or 6 leaf version, depending on the year of your big Healey.
On Ebay, there is a vendor selling rear leaf springs for the Healey. Their vendor name is sportscarpartsltd. They were kind enough to respond to my inquiry and the springs they sell are the same as Moss (5 leaf). You can even see the Moss part number just barely in their photo. Their ad claims "these are the best springs available for the late Big Healey." If only that were true, this thread would not have been necessary.
Thanks again everyone for your input.
I have been continuing my quest to find other spring manufacturers and vendors.
Healey Surgeons sells 5 leaf springs that they buy from a UK company but they believe are made in India.
I plan to talk to Rossendale Road Springs late next week, so thanks for that lead Do8erman.
I also hadn't checked out BritishClassicCarParts.com, which sells high quality UK-built springs for our cars. Jon, at the company, has been very helpful in my quest for information. Their prices with shipping to the U.S. will be significantly less than Denis Welch or British Car Specialists, but as someone mentioned earlier, if there is a problem with the order, return shipping to the UK from California will not be trivial. They sell a 7 leaf or 6 leaf version, depending on the year of your big Healey.
On Ebay, there is a vendor selling rear leaf springs for the Healey. Their vendor name is sportscarpartsltd. They were kind enough to respond to my inquiry and the springs they sell are the same as Moss (5 leaf). You can even see the Moss part number just barely in their photo. Their ad claims "these are the best springs available for the late Big Healey." If only that were true, this thread would not have been necessary.
Thanks again everyone for your input.
Jeepster
Jedi Trainee
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It was either AH spares or Ahead4Healeys? Not sure which one of the two?
Do you have the originals? Could they be refurbished?
I think you will find that pretty much most of the repro springs are made in India or some far off land where labour is cheaper. If the parts outlets where to get repro parts made by timeserved UK craftsmen, they would be ten times the price.