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TR4/4A Any problems with new oil pumps for TR4 engine?

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TuffTR250

Jedi Warrior
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Somewhere I seem to recall that at one time there were problems with new oil pumps for TR4 engines and someone had suggested solutions for the problems. I have searched BCF and Googled the subject and I can't find any detailed definitive information. I recently bought a new oil pump for the TR4 engine that is in my TR3 and so I'm trying to make sure I have no problems with it once installed. I appreciate any information on this. Thanks!
Regards,
Bob
 
There have been a couple of problems discussed in the past, which may or may not still exist today. The ones I recall offhand:

1) Rotor not pinned to shaft. Some of them just have the rotor pressed onto the (knurled) shaft and the joint eventually tears loose, causing a sudden loss of oil pressure and shedding metal bits into the oil galleries.
2) Rotor and shaft too soft, leading to rapid wear.
3) Mis-matched radius between outer rotor and housing bore. I can't remember now if it was the TR2-4 pump or the TR7-Stag pump, but on one of them it is important to turn the outer rotor (the part not attached to the shaft) the right way around as only one end has a chamfer to match the machining of the bore.

Greg Solow (The Engine Room) supposedly sells a pump that has been extensively reworked to avoid these problems.
 
Thanks Randall! I just noticed that TeriAnn's web site has some comments on oil pumps and also she has a comment from Greg Solow with a brief description of how he reworks them.
Regards,
Bob
 
I believe Greg drills out the pin, taps them, set screw, and welds over.

The best fix is the Steve Yott design which integrates the shaft with the rotor, but I think he's only ever made a couple batches of them.
 
Steve Yott I think still makes them. Very nice, I have one in my TR4 for 2 years now with no issues.
 
Price was $225 plus a good core (and probably plus shipping) back in 2010. At that time, his email was tr4 at wi dot rr dot com

That same email mentions another problem that I forgot before : the tangs break on the shaft & pump. Supposedly Steve's modifications help with this problem as well, by supporting the center rotor from both ends (so it can't wobble) and radiusing the cuts for the tangs. But I think this is more of a weakness in the original design, rather than a flaw of the aftermarket pumps. That said, it only happened to me when a piece of debris got jammed in the rotors, which no amount of pump improvement is going to fix. However, Ken Gillanders wrote up a mod many years ago that seems to help; basically tying the pickup screen to the pickup tube in multiple places with soft copper (or SS) wire. That helps keep the screen from breaking at the blob of solder that holds it to the tube (and hence keeps the FOD out of the pump).
 
Steve did a run last year and I bought one. At that time his price was $250.00 and I asked him if he needed a core. He said no core required. He only makes small runs and not too frequently. Looks like a nice piece and I'll install it next time I have the oil pan off. I believe his e-mail address is as Randall stated above.
 
Randall I took your advise a few weeks ago and wired up the screen to the tube with copper wire. I couldn't quite get the wire around the tube but got two wires over the tube and down toward the bottom of the screen so I think that would hold it if the solder gave way. Thanks!
p.s. I have sent an email to Steve to see if he is still selling his oil pumps.
Regards,
Bob
 
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