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Any gotchas when removing steering rack?
- Thread starter drooartz
- Start date
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Jim_Gruber
Yoda
Offline
Drew,
Be sure and
1)use a bottoming tap to clean out the holes on the rack clamp bolts. Lots of junk down there.
2)I used pieces of rubber bicycle inner tube glued to the rack clamps to help secure the rack and keep it from moving.
3)If replacing bolts like I did measure carefully as bolts were bottoming out and rack did not tighten properly. Interesting handling till I figured that out in short order.
4) Replace pinch bolt and nut with new hardware. Use a metal locking nut not a Nylon Nylock Nut
5) Frank already talked about spacers and shims.
6) I replaced the pinion gear on my '68 rack. Gear is really cheap for the early racks, expensive for later racks. It did tighten up steering feel. There is a procedure in the manual on spacers required. Spacers can be made easily from hobby store copper sheet. Comes in various thickness. Without correct spacers rack will lock up or be stiff to turn. Don't ask me how I know on that one.
7) You've read the debate on grease vs. 90W gear oil. I won't reopen that debate.
Be sure and
1)use a bottoming tap to clean out the holes on the rack clamp bolts. Lots of junk down there.
2)I used pieces of rubber bicycle inner tube glued to the rack clamps to help secure the rack and keep it from moving.
3)If replacing bolts like I did measure carefully as bolts were bottoming out and rack did not tighten properly. Interesting handling till I figured that out in short order.
4) Replace pinch bolt and nut with new hardware. Use a metal locking nut not a Nylon Nylock Nut
5) Frank already talked about spacers and shims.
6) I replaced the pinion gear on my '68 rack. Gear is really cheap for the early racks, expensive for later racks. It did tighten up steering feel. There is a procedure in the manual on spacers required. Spacers can be made easily from hobby store copper sheet. Comes in various thickness. Without correct spacers rack will lock up or be stiff to turn. Don't ask me how I know on that one.
7) You've read the debate on grease vs. 90W gear oil. I won't reopen that debate.
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
Offline
Drew,
Be sure and
1)use a bottoming tap to clean out the holes on the rack clamp bolts. Lots of junk down there.
2)I used pieces of rubber bicycle inner tube glued to the rack clamps to help secure the rack and keep it from moving.
3)If replacing bolts like I did measure carefully as bolts were bottoming out and rack did not tighten properly. Interesting handling till I figured that out in short order.
4) Replace pinch bolt and nut with new hardware. Use a metal locking nut not a Nylon Nylock Nut
5) Frank already talked about spacers and shims.
6) I replaced the pinion gear on my '68 rack. Gear is really cheap for the early racks, expensive for later racks. It did tighten up steering feel. There is a procedure in the manual on spacers required. Spacers can be made easily from hobby store copper sheet. Comes in various thickness. Without correct spacers rack will lock up or be stiff to turn. Don't ask me how I know on that one.
7) You've read the debate on grease vs. 90W gear oil. I won't reopen that debate.
8) Oh and pay attention to torque specs for the bolts. That is aluminum down there it appears. Don't overtighten.
Be sure and
1)use a bottoming tap to clean out the holes on the rack clamp bolts. Lots of junk down there.
2)I used pieces of rubber bicycle inner tube glued to the rack clamps to help secure the rack and keep it from moving.
3)If replacing bolts like I did measure carefully as bolts were bottoming out and rack did not tighten properly. Interesting handling till I figured that out in short order.
4) Replace pinch bolt and nut with new hardware. Use a metal locking nut not a Nylon Nylock Nut
5) Frank already talked about spacers and shims.
6) I replaced the pinion gear on my '68 rack. Gear is really cheap for the early racks, expensive for later racks. It did tighten up steering feel. There is a procedure in the manual on spacers required. Spacers can be made easily from hobby store copper sheet. Comes in various thickness. Without correct spacers rack will lock up or be stiff to turn. Don't ask me how I know on that one.
7) You've read the debate on grease vs. 90W gear oil. I won't reopen that debate.
8) Oh and pay attention to torque specs for the bolts. That is aluminum down there it appears. Don't overtighten.
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
Offline
If you don't plan on realigning or repalcing tie rod ends, unbolting the steering arms doesn't mess with the alignment.
OP
Offline
I'm using new tie rod ends, so I've got to do an alignment anyways.
I'm not planning on messing with the rack itself, just may need it out of the way to run the brake line. If I can put the line in place easily without removing the rack, then that will be my plan.
I'm trying to keep the mission creep to a minimum at this point! I need to be driving this season.
I'm not planning on messing with the rack itself, just may need it out of the way to run the brake line. If I can put the line in place easily without removing the rack, then that will be my plan.
I'm trying to keep the mission creep to a minimum at this point! I need to be driving this season.