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M_Pied_Lourd
Darth Vader
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73....
Yep...Look up to Randall's 2nd post.
Cheers,
Tush
Yep...Look up to Randall's 2nd post.
Cheers,
Tush
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Any experience with resealing a gas tank?
- Thread starter racer_x
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DNK
Great Pumpkin
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It's funny , I don't have that filter for the vent.
I looked for RENU a couple of years ago when I got to this stage, that's how long I have been stalling, There is not a franchise near me.
There is a Rad shop that seals and will add a bung for me just won't put that nice finish on the outside.
I want to PC it but am worried about the inside sealant.
I looked for RENU a couple of years ago when I got to this stage, that's how long I have been stalling, There is not a franchise near me.
There is a Rad shop that seals and will add a bung for me just won't put that nice finish on the outside.
I want to PC it but am worried about the inside sealant.
M_Pied_Lourd
Darth Vader
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You could POR15 it....bulletproof....
Cheers,
Tush
Cheers,
Tush
OP
racer_x
Senior Member
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Hi Guys-
I soldered my tank- I degreased it on Sunday, then filed down the areas that I thought were going to be an issue. Last night, I turned out all of the lights in the garage, and put a LED head lamp inside of the tank. This way I could see the Triumph Rust Constellation : ). Once I knew where the pin holes were, I then flicked on an over head light and soldered away. Worked pretty darn well, the biggest size hole was about a 1/16 of an inch, the rest were pin holes. After soldering, I filed them down flat, and checked again. I kept doing this until there was no more light and the surface was smooth.
I filed them because I don't want anything to "catch", rip and create a hole. I plan on sealing it next using a POR-15 brand tank sealer after I etch it.
M. Pied Lourd- what did you paint the outside of your tank with?
I soldered my tank- I degreased it on Sunday, then filed down the areas that I thought were going to be an issue. Last night, I turned out all of the lights in the garage, and put a LED head lamp inside of the tank. This way I could see the Triumph Rust Constellation : ). Once I knew where the pin holes were, I then flicked on an over head light and soldered away. Worked pretty darn well, the biggest size hole was about a 1/16 of an inch, the rest were pin holes. After soldering, I filed them down flat, and checked again. I kept doing this until there was no more light and the surface was smooth.
I filed them because I don't want anything to "catch", rip and create a hole. I plan on sealing it next using a POR-15 brand tank sealer after I etch it.
M. Pied Lourd- what did you paint the outside of your tank with?
M_Pied_Lourd
Darth Vader
Offline
Racer....
My tank was done at Gas Tank Renu inside and out. I was suggesting to Don that POR15 might be a good coating for the exterior of the tank.
Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
My tank was done at Gas Tank Renu inside and out. I was suggesting to Don that POR15 might be a good coating for the exterior of the tank.
Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Probably not good. Have to be by truck, the airlines won't take anything that has ever had fuel in it. And it would probably have to be labeled and handled as hazardous material.DNK said:
But I find it hard to believe you can't find someone to do the work near Seattle, even if they aren't "Gas Tank RENU". What about:
City Radiator & Auto Repair Center
3201 Northeast 145th Street
Seattle, WA 98155-7504
Phone: (206) 364-4300
Business Types: Mufflers & Exhaust Systems, Radiator & Gas Tank Repair, Radiators Coolants & Solvents
Midway Muffler Brakes Radiator
Seattle, WA 98148
Phone: (206) 824-4955
Business Types: Batteries, Batteries Storage, Brake Repair, Radiator & Gas Tank Repair
Walt's Radiator & Muffler
Seattle, WA 98101
Phone: (206) 542-1499
Business Types: Auto Maintenance & Repair Services, Radiator & Gas Tank Repair
West Seattle Radiator and Auto
4101 West Marginal Way Southwest Suite A3
Seattle, WA 98106-1284
Phone: (206) 935-7176
Business Types: Auto Maintenance & Repair Services, Radiator & Gas Tank Repair
trfourtune
Jedi Knight
Offline
That is who i used (RENU), in Langley BC. was very pleased.
Just remember that by the time you have bought some POR, acid etch, blast, etc, you probably spent $100 and a bunch of your time. If it cost $200 for RENU, with a lifetime garantee, I know what my choice would be.
Rob
Just remember that by the time you have bought some POR, acid etch, blast, etc, you probably spent $100 and a bunch of your time. If it cost $200 for RENU, with a lifetime garantee, I know what my choice would be.
Rob
dklawson
Yoda
Offline
When I am working on my cars I do not count my time or place a dollar value on it. Yes, my time is valuable but I also consider working on my cars relaxation. I agree that if I were in the business of restoring classics, I would not take on projects like sealing tanks, I would farm them out.
For those who are interested, the POR motorcycle tank kit really has sufficient material to do a tank as large as 10 gallons or so (in spite of what their literature says). The kit comes with the Marine Clean, Metal Ready, liner material, and patching cloth. It's a little over $40 plus shipping. Figure a full day of your time for prep and application.
Racer_X, you sounded concerned about using metal ready inside the tank. It's no problem. Apply duck tape over the pinholes as you find them, fill the tank with the various cleaners and/or Metal Ready (depending on which step you are at) and frequently turn the tank (obviously with all the openings sealed). Give the chemicals time to work. This is where Rob's comments come into play. If you are not willing to spend the time babysitting the process and want to spend that time elsewhere, sending the tank out for coating is justified. Just like with painting, the end results are formed during preparation and tank cleaning and lining takes time.
For those who are interested, the POR motorcycle tank kit really has sufficient material to do a tank as large as 10 gallons or so (in spite of what their literature says). The kit comes with the Marine Clean, Metal Ready, liner material, and patching cloth. It's a little over $40 plus shipping. Figure a full day of your time for prep and application.
Racer_X, you sounded concerned about using metal ready inside the tank. It's no problem. Apply duck tape over the pinholes as you find them, fill the tank with the various cleaners and/or Metal Ready (depending on which step you are at) and frequently turn the tank (obviously with all the openings sealed). Give the chemicals time to work. This is where Rob's comments come into play. If you are not willing to spend the time babysitting the process and want to spend that time elsewhere, sending the tank out for coating is justified. Just like with painting, the end results are formed during preparation and tank cleaning and lining takes time.