TR2/3/3A Any advice for new floor install on my TR3?

[Joel Lester]

Hey guys,

Looking forward to diving into the new floor install on my 58' TR3. In staying with the advice I've already learned, I'm doing one side and the car is sill on the frame so I don't get things out of alignment/adjustment. The new floor (right side) looks to be of good quality. Got it from the Roadster Factory. The square nuts/cages are nicely installed etc. My car hasn't been restored by any previous owners so I'm working with "virgin" stuff.

I guess in a fantasy world I would take it out of the box and slide it into the new place and Bingo! it would fit. But we all know that not the case in these car restorations. The old floor is out and I test fitted the new one. It's gunna need some fiddling with.

Where do I start? It seems a tad too wide and a bit too long. Do you bend the new floor along the side where it meets the inner sill? It's a little long too. Shortening the front? Or the back?

Just looking for any advice you guys might have. I'm sure a ton of you have been through this before and any tips and tricks would be super helpful!

Thanks in advance!

Joel

 

[CJD]

Have you drilled out the spot welds of the old floor and removed it yet? The old floor gives you the pattern for the new floor. You will most likely have to trim the front, rear, and/or the sill edges if necessary. The only bending should be in the area of the floor that hooks under the quarter panels in the rear.

 

[Frank Canale]

Before you remove the transmission cover take pictures of how it mates to the original floor. My driver side floor matched pretty good, the passenger side is off at the front and the flange is going to need to be re formed to match the trans cover. Don’t be afraid to stretch the mounting holes. Most of mine needed adjusting. Good luck , Frank

 

[Joel Lester]

Thanks guys. I have the tranny tunnel out and it's nice to be able to hammer/dolly the exact shape while on the bench. It was a bit of a pain in the neck to get the old floor out - drilling spot welds etc. At times felt like I was opening a big can of sardines! LOL!. Wasn't able to do it in one piece.
Sounds like I'll take my time and do a little at a time and keep checking the fit.

Joel

 

[Mike in Boise]

Joel,
You probably have already discovered that leather gloves are a must but I found the floor pan from Ebay was a nice fit except a bit long at the f

ront. Trimmed it several times before it got too short, only kidding. You probably already pried up the side strip rear of the door, a must for getting it in. It has to slip under the strip and under the back floor piece first then forced down in the front. As to width mine just forced the tunnel over with no bad results. The side by the door opening was too tall and also had to be ground down flush. Here are a couple of pics.

 

[Joel Lester]

Thanks for the pics.... they always help. Sounds like a little trimming, re-fitting, trimming more and taking the time to do it right is the key. No need to rush it right? I will be making sure that the bolt holes line up with the inner sill mounting flanges too. I'm hoping to get a little garage time in today

 

[Jerry]

Another hint. Don't buy the spot welder from Harbor Freight (220 model) to spot weld the floor in. They don't have enough power to do the sides of the new floor. Much easier to drill a hole and weld.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Do one side at a time is my only piece of advice.

Cheers,
Tush

 

[DavidApp]

If you have not already discovered it put some padding on the sharp point on the scuttle by the "A" post. It can open up a nasty gash on your head if you are not careful.

Don't ask how I know.

David

 

[Joel Lester]

David... too late. I bumped my head on that sucker already! Thankfully no gash or bruising. I'll have to remember that when I do the other side. I was able to get it in there and fitting nicely over the weekend.

Joel