Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
Offline
Come to think of it, yours and mine may be the same. Woody has his custom ground. Look on page 72 of the catalog - stock number is there.
-
Hey Guest!
British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
-
When posting a classified ad, you MUST select a prefix from the drop-down next to the subject line. If you don't you will get an error and your ad will not be posted!
Wedge Another Wedge head has joined us
- Thread starter tdskip
- Start date
Share this page
Offline
That's about where mine is. I can drop it lower without having it stall, but the igntion light sometimes comes on if I go too low. That's registered on its own tach, of course, so don't know how accurate that is.
Offline
racer_x said:
Since the picture in the back yard was taken, I installed lower springs. Great stance now.
Offline
racer_x said:
HAF is Poseidon Green and RAG is the tan plaid (same as mine). Looks like someone swapped in the velour seats on yours.
Offline
Yep - will play havoc with the front spoiler! And the exhaust system!
swift6
Yoda
Offline
Ted's springs are lower than stock. If it didn't change the height much, or seemed to raise it, then your springs were probably sagged. I put Ted's springs on my car and the height stayed the same but the control and ride was much better. Agree with the issues if you go lower.
racer_x
Senior Member
Offline
swift6 said:
The springs I have were put on by the previous owner, so I can't see the difference. I have read that the stock springs sag over the years and there isn't much difference in hight when putting on lowering springs.
My car just looks like it should be dropped another inch or so.
I had original springs on my TR8 and when put Ted's springs on it raised the ride height. Looks a bit goofy to me at first but I have gotten used to it, and more importantly it drives great now.
That said - I'd encourage you to blaze a new path here John so I can learn from you or tease you mercilessly if you mess up.
That said - I'd encourage you to blaze a new path here John so I can learn from you or tease you mercilessly if you mess up.
I have a Ford 8.8 out of an Explorer. Most guys run the axle from a thunderbird that has been narrowed on both sides with custom made Moser axles drilled with the TR8 wheel bolt pattern.(4X95.25) The Explorer axle is stronger and a little heavier(10 pounds) than the car based 8.8 axles. It is the axle of choice for the Mustang drag racers and the Jeep rock crawlers because of it's strength. The Explorer drive line is offset 3 inches to one side, making one axle shaft 3" shorter than the other. It worked out that the short side was nearly perfect for what the TR8 needs, so I bought two complete rear ends and narrowed the long side only to match the shorter side. I used the two shorter axle shafts and I was done. Took less than a day to build and spent about $200 on the two rear ends, and the steal plate I needed for the new mounts. I still have one of the rear ends with the posi unit but only have the two long shafts. It is cheaper to have them cut and resplined than it is to order custom ones, or I could just order custon ones that still se the stock wheel bolt pattern. For the front I used shortened Rover SD1 struts and hubs, redrilled to match the Ford wheel bolt pattern. Now I have massive front and rear disc brakes, posi, five lugs for added strength, larger wheel bearings, and best of all a wheel bolt pattern that actually allows you a choice of high quality wheels at a reasonable price. I'm running 16X8 rear and 16X7 front Enkei RPF1s. The car I'm working on now will probably get an independent rear end out of a BMW so I'm in the market for another pair of Rover front struts.
Attachments
swift6
Yoda
Offline
racer_x said:
Careful though, you go to low and you can negatively effect the ride and handling. The wedge's suspension is designed for long travel. There is another TR8 in my area that has been slammed pretty low, lots of time spent on the right spring rates, not just cut springs, and its horrible to drive on anything but the smoothest roads. A small ripple in a corner and it gets skittish. If there is even a small speed-bump or driveway incline, forget about it. Going to larger diameter wheels helps the looks a lot IMHO.
The tires on my car are about 1 inch taller than the stock tires. If memory serves, the 185/70/13 is 23.1 inches. The 225/45/16 I used in the back is 24.2" and the front 205/50/16 in the front is 24.1". I also installed front sleeved coil overs and rear adjustable spring perches on custom control arms. This lets me dial the ride height up and down and allows for more precise corner weighting. The Rover struts give the car about 2 degrees of negative camber that might have to be dialed out with a set of camber plates if front tire wear becomes an issue. I have a couple of race cars, so it should be expected that I would go a little overboard on my street cars. Since I saved a ton of cash on the rear end, I could spend my budget on other trick pieces. Now if I can just scape up enough to finish the twin turbo 4 liter planned for the car, I will b be finished. At least with the green one! That will leave only a half dozen or so others to finish. Here is a pic of the car getting most of my recent love. It's a BMW 2002 I'm building for Vintage racing.
