Another small step for the 100-6

[blueskies]

A couple of points: you said the motor mounts may need re-positioning. Healey motor mounts are handed. There is an RH stamped on one and a LH on the other. If they are reversed things will not line up properly. Secondly, if this engine is truly a rebuild and has never been driven, you should certainly break in the cam and lifters first.

I did have to change the two pieces that bolt to the car frame; the ones that came with the motor were for a narrower frame. The rest of the motor mount parts, including the main and top rubber cushions looked identical to Healey parts. I guess I got lucky with the LH and RH thing. Both looked the same, and they did fit, with a little persuasion.

Regarding break in, what is the suggested procedure? The last engine I installed was a 396. To break it in, I ran it at a steady moderate RPM for about 20 minutes, if I recall correctly. Is the Healey procedure similar? Another question is whether one can build up oil pressure before trying to start the engine. On a GM V8, one can pull the distributor and spin the oil pump using a drill and an attachment. That gets the oil into the nooks and crannies of the engine. Is that possible with a Healey?

 

[simon1966]

Here in Central Illinois we are forecast 54 Degrees and partially cloudy. I just took the dogs out for their morning business and the sky is clear. I plan to go for a drive today.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

... Regarding break in, what is the suggested procedure? The last engine I installed was a 396. To break it in, I ran it at a steady moderate RPM for about 20 minutes, if I recall correctly. Is the Healey procedure similar? Another question is whether one can build up oil pressure before trying to start the engine. On a GM V8, one can pull the distributor and spin the oil pump using a drill and an attachment. That gets the oil into the nooks and crannies of the engine. Is that possible with a Healey?

There are as many opinions on engine break-in as there are, well, certain body parts. One thing that is certain is that for flat-tappet push-rod engines like our Healeys' Austins on initial startup the engine should be run at a steady 2,000RPM--give or take--for 20 minutes or so. This is to assure sufficient lubrication of the cam and lifter surfaces while they are 'machined' to each other. There are differences of opinions as to whether special 'break-in' oil or ZDDP additives should be used; I believe I would use a break-in oil or additive just to be on the safe side (I used an additive when we broke in our BN2 engine). After the first oil change it's a tossup; some say use an additive but I just use 20W-50 oil like Valvoline Racing which still has a useful amount of ZDDP in it. I've put over 100K miles on my BJ8's engine with various 20W-50s.

As for the break-in period, some like to 'baby' the engine but many say 'break it in slow, have a slow engine.' My dad has rebuilt many engines and he says to 'break it in like you're going to drive it.' I think running at various speeds and loads for the first thousand miles or so is a good idea. For contrast, aircraft piston engines HAVE to be run at a steady 2,200-2,500RPM at lower altitudes--for increased BMEP--with full rich mixture (to wash as much oil off the cylinder walls as possible and for additional cooling). This is because the clearances are relatively large and if you don't run at full power the rings won't seat (I've heard of owners putting Bon Ami into cylinders in an attempt to grind the rings and cylinder walls of their oil-burners). And, modern engines generally don't require any break-in--Corvettes come from the factory with synthetic oil--due to modern alloys and machining standards. I think our Austins are somewhere in between.

Unfortunately, you can't spin the oil pump on a Healey like you can a SBC. I've heard of people who somehow pump oil to the top end, but the most practical way is to remove the plugs and spin it on starter until you see some oil pressure. If you've used break-in grease on the high-pressure surfaces (cam) and dunked the pistons in oil you'll be OK unless your engine doesn't start right away.

 

[healey106]

Did you ever get the 4 blades you needed? I have a set in the basement if you are interested and
Happy New Year to All

 

[blueskies]

Did you ever get the 4 blades you needed? I have a set in the basement if you are interested and
Happy New Year to All

I looked around and found one other blade, but it looks the same as the one that is on there. Someone said the two blades should be different from each other. I wonder if that is so? If that is the case, I would be interested in the blades that you have.

And a Happy New Year to everyone, and thanks for a great forum!

 

[healeyblue]

I think both blades are the same. At least they seem that way to me, when stacked on top of each other that is.

 

[blueskies]

In case anyone is interested, here is the latest update on getting this 100-6 running.

The good: all new wiring to engine and dash connected, with no smoke or sparks. Powering up a new wiring harness for the first time always puts me on edge. The key and starter button work as they should. With the spark plugs out (or in) the engine spins well and it built oil pressure within 30 seconds or so - up to 70 psi or more. I wonder if that is too high? No fuel in the tank, so no actual attempt to start the engine yet. Also, the engine now has the extra fan blade installed. Thanks for the offer of a second blade, but the spare from the parts pile appears to be in good condition.

The bad: four leaks detected:

1. When pouring coolant in for the first time, one core/freeze plug leaked through a pinhole, rusted through the middle of the plug. Found some dish type core plugs, and then removed all freeze plugs and the block heater from the driver's side of the engine and replaced with ten new plugs. That block heater did not want to come out! Most of the old core plugs looked fine. With the engine in the car, it is not feasible to replace the plug(s) on the back side of the engine, so hoping for the best there. Since the core plugs were out, this seemed like the perfect opportunity to flush the cooling system. Lots of rust and black sand (still from the casting at the foundry?) came out, and the water eventually ran clear.

2. Then, when spinning the engine, the water pump started leaking from the weep hole underneath. Drained the coolant, again, and disassembled the water pump. Those parts have that obsolete look about them; hoping to find a rebuild kit, especially considering the poor reputation of the repro pumps. A spare pump off of a parts engine saved the day, for now. Installed, it does not leak, at least not while spinning the engine without having it actually running. It seems that this second pump was rebuilt; it has a bolt and sealing washer where the grease zerk originally fit; that likely means it received permanently lubed bearings at some point.

3 and 4. Two oil leaks. One was at the oil line fitting on the distributor, which was easily fixed with a new copper washer. The second leak is from the flex line between the block and the hard oil gauge line. A new flex line is on the way.

Anyway, back on track. Now to reinstall the manifolds, carbs, and see whether the fuel tank holds fuel and the fuel pump pumps.

 

[Rob Glasgow]

Blue skies, looks like you're on your way. You've had leaks in the water and oil systems and only need to find the leaks in the fuel system to have the trifecta. It's all part of the fun of restoration.