TR6 Another novice question re:TR6 tune-ups and chokes

[bricktop]

So.....took my 6 to the professionals last week for a tune-up. Got all the basics and a carb adjustment. Now I have a before and after situation.....BEFORE taking the car in for service, when I would start the car cold with the choke fully engaged, it would jump up to a 2k RPM idle. As long as I let the car warm up properly before driving off, I could disengage the choke and the idle would stabilize at 900-1000 RPMs and generally remain strong.

AFTER the service, when I start the car cold with the choke fully engaged, the engine will barely maintain 1000 RPMs and the idle is shallow and weak. Even after a ten-minute warmup, the idle remains shallow. In fact, I have to keep the choke engaged at all times for the car to idle AT ALL.

Anything a novice can troubleshoot at home before having to take the car all the way back out to the shop for a fix??

Thanks.

 

[TR3driver]

Almost certainly something you can take care of, but I wouldn't want to even try. If you touch it, and then find something is screwed up (eg stripped threads in a carb) the shop will claim any problem is your fault.

I'd take it back to them; and then next time do it yourself. Otherwise, you are going to wind up doing the entire tune-up yourself, since it could be almost anything (and it's all designed to be do-able at home).

 

[poolboy]

Aside from the problem getting it to idle,are there any other problems? Will the engine rev up normally ?
The problem could be that the choke cable/fast idle screw is not adjusted properly along with the idle speed (throttle stop) screws.
Tell me more and I might be able to narrow it down.

 

[DNK]

And beside that I hear Poolboy does house calls

 

[DaveatMoon]

Almost certainly something you can take care of, but I wouldn't want to even try. If you touch it, and then find something is screwed up (eg stripped threads in a carb) the shop will claim any problem is your fault.

I'd take it back to them; and then next time do it yourself. Otherwise, you are going to wind up doing the entire tune-up yourself, since it could be almost anything (and it's all designed to be do-able at home).

I agree totally with Randall. You pay people for service, and this isn't acceptable. If you so much as turn a screw you've lost your leverage with them to have them fix what they did.

However if they find anything "wrong" that needs repair or replacement, take it somewhere else (assuming you don't want to take it on yourself, which is pretty straightforward with these cars). The last thing I would do is give these guys another opportunity to make money monkeying around with your carbs.

 

[TR3driver]

The problem could be that the choke cable/fast idle screw is not adjusted properly along with the idle speed (throttle stop) screws.

Another possibility might be that they believed the book, where it says to adjust the timing & idle with the vacuum line disconnected. If you set the timing to 4 ATDC with the line disconnected, then hook the vacuum retard back up, it won't idle. Or even setting the timing with the engine a little overheated (so the TVS activates) can cause problems.

 

[poolboy]

The thing is, I can't believe these guys let it out of the shop when it wouldn't idle. Or, for that matter, why you left the shop with it running that way.
I'd just hesitate to go back to a shop that was that carefree.

 

[poolboy]

And beside that I hear Poolboy does house calls

Have Vacuum Gauge (and stethoscope)
Will Travel
wire poolboy
Sandy Hook

 

[TR3driver]

Have Vacuum Gauge

Speaking of which, HF is now selling a vacuum test gauge at a modest price:
https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93547

 

[Brosky]

That is a nice gauge Randall.

I would call the shop and tell them that you expect it to run better, not worse when they tune it up. Make an appointment to see the owner when you take it back.