TR2/3/3A Another clutch slave adjustment question.....

[karls59tr]

On the TR6 gearbox with the 3 lever clutch and the slave cylinder mounted in the TR6 configuration what is meant by this: "Push the adjustable rod into the slave cylinder until the internal piston hits the back wall"......don't they mean that you push the rod in until it just makes contact with the slave piston then continue with the adjustment ? To me it sounds like you are pushing the piston all the way in?

 

[charleyf]

On the TR6 gearbox with the 3 lever clutch and the slave cylinder mounted in the TR6 configuration what is meant by this: "Push the adjustable rod into the slave cylinder until the internal piston hits the back wall"......don't they mean that you push the rod in until it just makes contact with the slave piston then continue with the adjustment ? To me it sounds like you are pushing the piston all the way in?

Do what it says and quit over thinking this stuff.
If the piston is not in its most forward position --yet. You need to be sure that it is by pushing it all the way in. If you want your adjustment ( that you are about to do) to be accurate you need the piston to be all the way in. That is the position it will return to during actual use. It will also be the position that will give you maximum travel to operate the clutch arm.
Charley

 

[CJD]

Yes, Karl, push the rod through the seal until you hit the piston, and then continue to push until the piston is fully in and stopped, where it will not move any more.

Now, the next step, where you unthread the rod until it presses against the clutch fork lever can be tricky. You want to remove any play in the rod, while being careful to NOT push the fork very hard. Just take up the slack, but no more than a pound or two of force against the fork lever when you do.

Then, the final step is to turn the adjuster shorter by the amount given in the manual, to allow the release bearing to come back off the clutch fingers. If you do not let off the adjustment by that amount, the finger will always touch the bearing and wear the fingers, even while cruising without the clutch being pushed.

 

[titanic]

If an external spring is used (as on the TR2-4a) on the slave cylinder piston will return to the bottom of the bore when the clutch pedal is release and the rod will require periodic adjustment to compensate for clutch wear.
If the external spring is not used, the internal spring in the slave cylinder will keep the TO bearing in light contact with the pressure plate when the clutch pedal is released and will compensate for wear, making the clutch self adjusting. This setup is used on the TR6.
at least, that is the way I understand it.
Berry

 

[CJD]

I thought all TR's had the large return spring, but I am not that familiar with the later cars. If you leave the large external spring off, then the release bearing will remain in contact with the fingers (or diaphragm). This will wear the fingers and the bearing, although it will take many thousands of miles for either to wear out and cause any problems.

The most common time you will see the TR's without the external return spring is after the pin holding the clutch internal fork to the shaft shears. When that happens, the angle and travel of the clutch lever coming out of the bellhousing changes. Although broken, the pin shears on a diagonal and jams the fork to the shaft. Owners have figured out that, in that case, if you remove the external spring, it will take up the play from the broken pin and allow you drive for a good while longer before pulling the tranny to repair the problem!?!

 

[3798j]

TR4A's don't have that return spring.
I was told it was eliminated because Triumph went to a diaphragm-type clutch.

 

[CJD]

I just checked the TR4/4A service manual. There should be a return spring. Again, it prevents the release bearing from riding against the diaphragm fingers and wearing both.

 

[CJD]

"back in the day", when we were running 4-500hp Chevys with Muncie rock crusher transmissions, we would remove the return spring for the clutch for 2 reasons. First, it would slow the shift, and second it made pressing the clutch harder. So for street drag racing we removed the spring and adjusted the release bearing to ride on the clutch diaphragm. Shifting was crazy...you blip the clutch pedal down and let your foot slide off to the side, allowing it to pop back up...all while jamming the shifter to the next gear with all your might!! Your right foot stayed planted to the floor on the accelerator. If you timed right, the 1-2 shift would pull the front of a Nova or Camaro off the ground. Do it wrong and you spent the next weekend rebuilding the tranny and often the engine!

Otherwise, I see no reason to remove the return spring?!?

 

[3798j]

Here’s a thread where that spring is talked about:
Someone (probably Randall) mentioned that the TR4A dropped the return spring on the clutch slave cylinder that the previous TRs had. A while back I added a return spring, thinking it (like many parts) was just missing.

So I'm planning to remove the spring, but I can't find in the shop manual...

> TR4/4A - TR4A clutch slave cylinder adjustment <

 

[3798j]

Here’s another thread (from a few years later) on setting up the TR4A slave cylinder:

Hi,

I have a pretty arcane question about the initial set-up for the TR4A slave cylinder which is self adjusting. I've read the Bentley Manual, Triumph Technical Service Bulletin T-66-55 (which says to use 0.3" freeplay, not 0.1") and the Moss Bulletin 596-046 on setting up the TR250 & TR6...

> TR4/4A - Setting up Self Adjusting Slave Cylinder <

 

[titanic]

.3" free play seems excessive as it would significantly reduce the push rod travel enough to cause clutch release problems.
Engine& Transmission

 

[3798j]

Attached photos. First two are from the the TR4 Workshop Manual (showing the return spring). Second two are from the TR4A Spare Parts Catalogue (no return spring shown).