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T-Series Another brake prob. ?

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Louis 52MGTD

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I am working the bug's out of my 52 MGTD, I think I have my generator Prob. and my front break leak fixed, the prob. I cannot seem to fix is after a drive when I shut the engine off and cut the ign. sw back on the brake lights stay on until it cools down, like the next morning, the lights do go off when I cut the ign. sw off.

The brake is right at the top, I have read where it should have 1/2 " free play, I serviced the master cly, as the book says, I jacked the car up and went counter clockwise one clk on the adjuster, all 4 wheel's spin freely, no friction on the drums, should I go another click on the adjusters and see in I can get that 1/2" free play, or is my prob. some where else ?

I'm new to these MG's and know little about them, have only had it a few week's, I do enjoy driving it but I'm guessing the brake lights stay on .
Here's a pic. of the car.
 

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Brake lite switch could be bad. Brake lites are usually wired hot, meaning they should work with out the ignition switch in the on position.
Adjust the brake drums until they are slightly dragging and test drive and check to see if it pulls or remains in a straight line.
 
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I did cut the ign. sw. on [motor not running] and the brake lights did come on, when I pushed the brakes on the brake lights went off and came right back on very fast, did this each time I put the brakes on.
With the ign. switch off, the brake lights do not come on when the brake is pressed. ???
should I just order a new switch and try that ? Louis
 
Brake light prob. back again?
The brake lights stay on after a short drive anytime the ign. switch is on. they are normal before I drive it, it does have a small amount of play in the brake pedal aprox. 1/2" to 1" [I would think normal] before you feel the brakes, but when I put it back in the garage after a short drive [4 to 5 miles] the brake pedal has no play, it is all the way to the top and the brake lights stay on with the engine off but the ign. sw on.

I changed the break light sw a few weeks back and adjusted the brakes by the book and thought that fixed it. the brake system seems to build up pressure when I drive it, but it bleeds off over night, in the morning the brake pedal has the right play and the brake lights work like they should.
I guess the next thing is to change the master cly, right ? and is that a very hard job ? Thanks for any advice.

BTW, it's a 1952 MGTD
 
Sounds like it could be a master cylinder issue not releasing the pressure in the lines.
try taking it for a run, then when brake lights are stuck on jack up each wheel in turn to check they spin freely,
if the master is not releasing pressure the brakes will bind.
 
I adjusted the adj. rod on the master cly. screwed it out from the M/C 4 or 5 turns, now the pedal feels a lot better, not as hard and up top as it was.
I drove it last night on a short drive to test it and the pedal stayed down about 2-3" like it should, it feels a lot better now, I will take it on a longer ride today, but I think that was my prob. the brake lights work like they should and are off when I pull into the garage, and the pedal does not stay at the top with a hard pedal.
This was my last attempt before I ordered a master cly. from Moss. I'll get back after my drive, but I feel it is ok now.
 
Just got back from my longer 2nd test drive, all is well :smile:. floor board and carpet are back in [although I could have done it with out removing it].

If your retired and getting board and want to renew your mechanical skills, just buy a 71 year old British sports car.
Since June I have repaired the frt. brake cly. leaking, the gen. not charging, the brake lights staying on and brake pedal at the top and building up press. when you drive, adjusting the clutch [the lock nut was missing] ,and several other small job's. But, now that their fixed, It was not work but kinda fun [hobby] and I have learned a lot about the car.

I love the sound of it and it's so much fun to drive.
Thank you all for your good advice. Louis
 
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