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Another 60 bucks spent
- Thread starter regularman
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regularman
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More progress today. The entire passenger side is now done all the way back. Now hopefully I can get the drivers side done tomorrow. I have learned a lot doing this bodywork. That high build primer is a double edged sword. It builds well and does not run but comes out of the gun almost dry and so gives a lot of overspray and leaves the surface very porus like pores on the skin that must be sanded down. Next time I will not spray the whole car in the high build, only the places that need it.
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Go with a "panel repair" approach. Section at a time. I see what appears to be "Nitro-Stan" spot putty?!?! If so, it's not a good sign. If it's a two-part (Dolphin Glaze is my choice) you're better off. Is the high solids primer an epoxy? Same reason: less shape change/shrinkage after cure. Hate to see you go through all that effort and find in six months the thing has shifted the surface!
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regularman
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The high build was a 2k primer. I'm using bondo brand spot putty. Only tiny amounts though.
sqbsprite
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When using the high build primers, you need a gun with a very large tip and usually a gravity feed cup. If not, the primer will not spray wet and smooth. I have not converted to HVLP yet, but I think there are primer guns available. My old gravity feed primer gun will spray household latex paint straight up without thinning. It makes the job much easier. But you are past that point now, so keep a sanding!
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regularman
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I used HVLP gravity feed. That Nason brand primer pretty much is made to work that way from what I understand. If I had to do it again. I would use etch primer on everything and then spray the problem areas with multiple coats of the hihg build and then fix those areas and then spray it all with another coat of a non build type primer, or the etch I used can be used over other materials just to get it all back the same color.
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regularman
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Not gonna work on the midget today. My shoulder is sore as I just got back from PT and my other shoulder is a bit sore as well and my knee is hurting and I did not sleep well at all last night. Not a good recipe for doing boywork. Tomorrow I will begin again with renewed vigor hopefully. Reading up on my new sealer. It is supposed to level and fill any scratches well and keeps the basecoat from soaking in and having to use more basecoat. I have 3 hours to coat the sealer without sanding. So the plan will be to spray one medium coat on the car and let it dry, then go over the car looking for any bad spots, then fix anything, then another coat of sealer, then spray the basecoat, then I have 24 hours to clear the base.
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regularman
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On top of that it is our wedding annniversary today and I have screwed things up royaly. Its only a bit after two and I am having a glass of scotch.
GreenHornet
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Don't over do it. Rest often and drink plenty of fluids!
It is coming along nicely!
It is coming along nicely!
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regularman
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More progress on the body today. I finished the driver's side of the car all the way back. Now only the rear of the car is left to be wet sanded down. Maybe I can get that done tomorrow. I am very tired of sanding and the skin is worn off my findger tips of my left hand from cleaning the sandpaper off in the water.
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regularman
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I am becoming a little mor anxious myself. I just need to finish the sanding and then put the car back up on jack stands and remove the wheels and then tape around the bottom and recheck my homemade paint booth and then try and relax as I prepare to paint. There is a direct corelation between being unrelaxed and getting a run in the paint /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
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regularman
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All the sanding done, but two tiny places on the wings on the ends of the rear fenders that I had to add a touch of bondo to. Hopefully tomorrow I will get that done and the area cleaned up and the car back on the stands and the wheels removed and all taped up and ready for sealing and painting.
regularman said:
When I shot my first 2 coats of paint, it was a sad story (keep in mind this is my first time painting a car). I had probably 5-6 runs scattered on various vertical surfaces. I used the same method that I used when shooting the primers and it just wasn't the same. The basecoat is extremely thin (even unthinned) and I had to be extremely careful. In the end, it required an extra day to let it cure and sand out my runs and do the whole process over again. I changed my method a little bit, shooting a light tack coat and following up with a nice wet coat after the first had flashed. Just get even coverage over the whole car and put the same number of coats everywhere so the color is matched. Also, maybe it's just me, but I had a whole lot more overspray shooting the basecoat than the primers.
And, say a little prayer before you squeeze that trigger. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
Mark
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regularman
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Amen brutha /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif62Migit said: