And now.... the trunk

[MisterB]

Hi Folks-
The doors and floors are done on the '67 but the hits just keep on coming! Time to sort the trunk. PO welded in a new trunk floor and some new metal bits came with the car, however......
I believe the floor was welded in too high on the rear inner quarter. Upon test fitting the shroud the floor sits inside the lip on the bottom of the quarter. Shouldn't the trunk floor sit beneath this lip for shroud attachment?
Question #2- the center support for the rear hoop was cut off with a sawzall so the latch plate is still attached but nothing below it. Of course that piece is AWOL. Does anyone have a measurement for the center support so I can make a lower and attach it? There really should be a test before you can own a power tool. Seriously!
Thanks once again for looking and any replies!

Mike Burgess
Albert, KS

 

[CLEAH]

Mike,

Attached are pictures of my chassis. You can see the boot floor relative to the quarters. Yes, the boot floor flange and the shroud should meet up. Hopefully this helps?

 

[MisterB]

Hi Hugh- Thanks for that, it's just the view I needed. Bears out that the floor needs to be lower at the quarter for shroud attachment. Nice work there, looking really good!

 

[Rob Glasgow]

Mike, another suggestion based on my mistake. Before you weld the center surport for the rear hoop to the trunk floor, test fit the rear shroud and make sure the rear lip of the floor is in line with the shroud lip. The new floor section is flexible enough to put a bow in the middle if you don't get the center support brace in the right spot.
I welded my center support to the floor without checking first and it hung below the shroud lip by 1/2". I had to cut the support free and reposition it. Of course, that section needed to be repainted afterwards. It's all part of the fun.

 

[CLEAH]

Mike, thanks, but not my work. I took my restoration as far as I cared to, and wanting it done prior to my 110th birthday, I sent it off to British Restoration Corp. in Philadelphia for the full spa treatment it deserves. It deserves better than me futzing with it for years. It is almost done--about 6 weeks away, just in time to let it hibernate for the winter!

 

[MisterB]

Great tip Hugh, thanks for that! This car was far from pampered in it's life and there's a lot of poorly done collision repair to sort out. 8 pieces all have to work together to make it even presentable but a comfy stool and a Dr Pepper while I look and think works wonders! Hopefully I'll not have to hang the shroud as many times as I had to hang the doors to get things fitted! GRRR!
Thanks for the experienced tip there Rob! This is what makes forums a great resource.

 

[MisterB]

Hi Folks-
A couple of photos of the starting point on the trunk. What a mess!

The floor has to come out, obvious rust repair and the frame horns where the bumpers attach are bent down(!?!) Straightened them out and after making a remedial jig, they measured 6" up from frame rail. The green book says 4.25". Guess they need to be cut loose and repositioned as well. Fiddly, fiddly fiddly.
Time to make a few sparks I guess.
Mike Burgess
Albert, KS

 

[twas_brillig]

Hugh - how many folks on the forum recognize the AH Specialty Tool that you're using to support the chassis? Winter blew in here two days ago and low tonight is -26 C (about -15 F), and my 'Specialty Tool' isn't nearly as rusty. Doug

 

[CLEAH]

Doug, you like that? It is a versatile tool, but I can't lay claim to masterminding that use. The picture is my chassis in my restorer's paint booth. They have restored something like 300 Healeys, and judging by how thick the paint is on the handle, it looks like they have been using the tool for a very long time! My own ice scraper gets used for its intended purpose here in icy Cleveland...but we have yet to have any truly cold weather yet this season. Next week...

 

[GregW]

Bears out that the floor needs to be lower at the quarter for shroud attachment.

The trunk floor rests on top of the frame rail. It should also be parallel to the frame's top. Unfortunately, it may be that your inner fenders are too low. In your first photo, the box that covers the leaf spring should fit under the piece of metal that the battery cable goes through. The top of that box should be in line with the cut-out on the inner fender. You can see how that all fits together in Cleah's second photo.

 

[Randy Forbes]

Hugh - how many folks on the forum recognize the AH Specialty Tool that you're using to support the chassis? Winter blew in here two days ago and low tonight is -26 C (about -15 F), and my 'Specialty Tool' isn't nearly as rusty. Doug

I have that same tool, also not as rusty. I recommend re-purposing it; if you sharpen the end, it becomes quite effective at preventing snakes from returning to your Florida flower beds!

 

[MisterB]

Hi Folks-
Got in some good spark time Sunday repairing rust outs and moving the frame horns in the trunk. While doing so a question came to me... is the correct order replace the spring boxes then the floor? Or vice-versa? Seems like the boxes should go in first. Thanks for any enlightenment!
Best-
Mike Burgess
Albert, KS

 

[MisterB]

Thank you Greg. Spent a short time Sunday in the shop due to a scheduled 50 year cleaning on my main furnace. Funny how rusty and clogged those old Colemans can get! PO had the floor welded to the frame rail but too far down on the inner fenders and no boxes installed. The right side box is new and the left side has enough there that I can make replacements for the sides. I think there was a plate floor welded over the mayhem ala the driver's floorboard. It shows signs of trauma removing it in the distant past. Oh, well it goes with my old car mantra----- "If it ain't broke, I can't afford it"!