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And now the subject we all love... The Hard Start.

Re: And now the subject we all love... The Hard St

The connectors (inner metal sleeves) tend to become brittle enough to break into pieces if they've gone for a while with corrosion resistance. Keep that in mind. May want to throw a couple extras of both the single and double ones inna glove box.
 
Re: And now the subject we all love... The Hard St

I got under the dash this weekend. I disassembled the steering column cowling, removed all the switches from the column, and unplugged all of the cables going up the column. I found my turn signal switch needs replacing (it's super stiff and the stalk is always falling out of the switch). I found I have a loose wire not connected to anything on the ignition bundle. So, I tied that off and made sure it wouldn't ground on anything. I cleaned up the plugs in the harness; the connectors all looked good no real corrosion there; just really dirty.

I also found a dash light under there just dangling all willy nilly like. So, I pulled the bulb from it and placed it in my "high beam" indicator as that seemed to be non-functioning lately. Late night drive last night seems to have all of my dash guages lit, and my feet no longer lit (my feet use to be lit brighter than the instruments).

Finally, while I was at it, I decided to look into why my horns aren't working. It seems the problem is because they're all broken, except for one of my back ups (the PO was kind enough to supply me with a spare set). The only horn that seems to be working is the "high" pitch horn and it sounds like something crawled up inside it and died. The low pitch horn seems kind of odd to me. It only has 1 terminal physically attached, the other terminal seems to be part of the mounting post. It's kind of hard to mount this thing without it shorting. Anyways, since it seemed like neither of my low pitched horns are working I just wired both high pitched horns in and left it at that for now.

The results on the electrical system are great. On start up (with no choke), the power light stays on until I rev the engine past 1000 RPMs. Then it goes out and stays out. Driving at night, the charge indicator is completely out now, unless I use the turn signals, and then I get a very very faint glow from the charging light that comes on and goes out in sync with the flashers. I think I need to disassemble the front lights and clean them as I have already done the rear ones recently.

A spirited test drive on a bumpy canyon road followed by a short bumpy freeway hop has me convinced that I addressed the problem. There were no power failures at all. I think my only remaining major electrical problem (aside from needing to replace the horns) is with the hazard lights, which seem to have stopped working. After chasing down all these other issues, I don't think it'll be too much of a problem to fix. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

However, I think I may be running a bit too lean now, because at speed on the freeway I experienced a bit of hesitation (felt like hitting pockets of wind even though there was no wind to speak of yesturday), and then I got some hesitation from idle after my freeway sprint.
 
Re: And now the subject we all love... The Hard St

There ya go...she just needed a little TLC! A little attention to Lucas can be very rewarding, or very frustrating.

Good luck finding a low horn that works...I bought several on ebay before I found the correct steel one that still had posts on it. But I love the tone she has now.

And the hesitation at highway speed could be timing, too...I would throw a timing light on her before I start messing with the mixture if I was you.

Good luck!

Bruce /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
Re: And now the subject we all love... The Hard St

hmmmmm... since this thread started because of a bad coil... I'll ask here... While working on my car today, I decided to see how hot my coil has been getting (engine started missing again) so i touched it with my bare hands. It felt pretty hot; pretty hot as in I don't want to leave my hand on it more than a second or two hot.

Is that too hot, or is it normal? I don't think my old coil ever got that hot... but then again it was a dieing unit...
 
Re: And now the subject we all love... The Hard St

Heat equals resistance. Resistance is not good on new unit. Mine is not hot at all. Check your wiring one more time to make sure everything is ok. On my big cars I would say you may need a resister in line but I'm not that familiar with the coils on MGs.
 
Re: And now the subject we all love... The Hard St

well, I ditched the "internally resisted" genero coil i got from Kragen, and dropped in an Accel SuperStock "Universal Performance" Coil along with a new ballast resistor. Then took the car out for a spin (around a mountain). Had some surface streets driving (35 to 50MPH) and some freeway driving (65 to 80MPH). She started acting lean (stumbling under acceloration from a dead stop) about 30 miles into the drive.

I got her home and did some spot checks. I checked the new "SuperStock" coil for heat, and it was warm to the touch but not hot; definitely a lot cooler than the old one. I also visually checked my under bonnet fuel filter; it was nearly empty. I'm not sure if the fuel filter emptying itself while driving is a problem, but it's something that I've tied to the car running lean after driving a while. I'm not sure what's causing it. I've checked my fuel flow rate, and it's good. There's also good pressure. The only things that I can think of that might be the cause of the leaness are either carb related, or heat related. I have a heatshield, but it's missing a piece. It is missing the shroud that covers the front most part of the exhaust manifold on the 76 Bs (Moss part# 373-940 which happens to be Not Available from them /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif). It's the part that allows the intake to draw warm air in from around the exhaust manifold on cold days. So there's a fair amount of warm/hot air flowing up into the carb area from the front of the engine. Not enough for total vapor lock, I think. I did notice that the lean "condition" takes longer to happen since I installed a stock heatshield. I'm thinking about getting some "shapeable" heat shield material to block out the remaining exposed bits of exhaust manifold from the carb area. I'm not sure if it'll help, but it can't hurt to try.
 
Re: And now the subject we all love... The Hard St

Semi vaperlocking is a condition a lot og MG owners talk about. If your filter is more than 1/2 empty when you stop you might look at some of the fuel lines. Sometimes rubber lines collapse inside and block fuel flow. I had that happen in a older car.
 
Re: And now the subject we all love... The Hard St

hmmm... well now there's a suggestion I haven't heard before... the fuel filter level started at 97% full, and was less than 25% full at the end of the drive. I had to jiggle the filter to see the fuel slosh around the bottom.

I've noticed a rubber fuel line running along the bottom of the car, but it doesn't look like the fuel system is using it (it's plugged at the rear, haven't figured out where it goes up front yet). The fuel leaves the tank on a hardline, switches to softline into the fuel pump, soft out of the fuel pump, into a hardline that runs into the engein bay. Next to the brake pedal box it switches to soft line for 3 inches and back to a hard line that runs along the front left fender and switches to softline and into the filter and a final 15" softline into the carb. I haven't changed any of the softlines since I got the car. Most of them look like they'll need it relatively soon. This is something I'll have to look into.
 
Re: And now the subject we all love... The Hard St

Another thing to check when you start running lean after a few - or several - miles is an air leak. This can be done by routing the end of the hose farthest from the tank into a glass jar. When the gas rises above the end of the hose, look for air bubbles. If found, check all connections and hose condition back to the tank.

If you are using an SU pump, the minimum pressure should be 2.7 PSI and the flow should be 2.4 pints per minute (18 gal per hour), not that the car uses that much, but a lower flow would indicate a worn pump. See https://www.custompistols.com/cars/articles/dd_su_fuel_pumps_101.htm

Guinn
 
Re: And now the subject we all love... The Hard St

I assume that the pump should be running while i'm watching for air bubbles in the jar... right?
 
Re: And now the subject we all love... The Hard St

Welll, I would. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif


While I had the hose loose I definitely would check the flow rate. If it were significantly lower than 2.4 Pints Per Minute I would pull the hose closest to the pump and try again. A good flow would indicate a blockage downstream. A poor flow would indicate a weak pump. (Or possibly a plugged or collapsed hose at the pump but that is not too likely.)

Guinn
 
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