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Ammeter
- Thread starter adam90009
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I don't particularly like the ammeter idea because it involves running heavy gage main wires from the regulator to the dash & back. These cars have enough problems with shorts, loose connections & burned wires without adding to the problem. If you do use an ammeter, put 50 amp fuses in both wires.
There is the possibility of using a Hall effect transducer in the existing wiring at the voltage regulator & using light gage wires to the actual dash meter, but this gets expensive.
May I suggest a voltmeter instead. A good one will tell you a lot about what is happening. When the"dynamo" is putting out the meter should read around 14 volts at 2000 rpm, with a charged battery. If there is no charging the meter will read around 12 volts. Takes a bit more to learn to interpret the voltmeter but better in my estimation.
D
There is the possibility of using a Hall effect transducer in the existing wiring at the voltage regulator & using light gage wires to the actual dash meter, but this gets expensive.
May I suggest a voltmeter instead. A good one will tell you a lot about what is happening. When the"dynamo" is putting out the meter should read around 14 volts at 2000 rpm, with a charged battery. If there is no charging the meter will read around 12 volts. Takes a bit more to learn to interpret the voltmeter but better in my estimation.
D
John Morralee
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To help solve those electrical problems,let alone to know that the dyno. is charging, I would like to fit an ammeter to my '63 BJ7 (always appreciated them on other older cars I have owned). I am sure someone has done so:any tips?
John Morralee
Senior Member
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thank you both ,two similar comments speak loudly.