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MGB AMGBA vs. NAMGBA

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Bret

Bret

Yoda
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Ok, I’m a little confused (understatment depending on who ya ask /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif ). But I am dieing to know if there some sort of bad blood between these two that I should be aware of? I mean I mention one or the other in mixed company and I’ve noticed some rather chilly reactions.

Could someone please enlighten me? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
Bret, I belong to NAMGBR, but if you ask me, tomato(long a) tomato (short a). /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
They are all too political for me. I just like hanging out with fellow British Gearheads. None of this official organization nonsense interests me at all.
 
That’s kind'a what I always thought. But I mentioned one (won't say who) in casual conversation with a group from the other and you'd think I spit a wad of Redman in their cornflakes. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/pukeface.gif

I'd still like to know what gives? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 
"I mentioned one (won't say who) in casual conversation with a group from the other and you'd think I spit a wad of Redman in their cornflakes."

That attitude is why I vote NEITHER
 
::looks at paperwork::

I joined the AMGBA, because I had come across their magazine, and signed up via that.

I didnt know there was an NAMGBA group.

For me, my car and British cars in general are all about having fun. No need to be cliquish in my opinion.
 
Dahubby belongs to AARP. Does that count?
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

A friend and club member is editor of The Driver. I keep saying I'm going to join NAMGBR, but in the year I've had Emma, I haven't...
 
JB, I told you to get up off DA-Hubby it jest ain't fair.---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
The reason for me joining NAMGBR is their "MG Driver" magazine. Written well, good stories, and a good tip section. These clubs are only political if you make them that way. Let whoever is running it, run it. My dues are well worth the magazine. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
Actually I am a member of both. Been a member of NAMGBA for years and only just joined the AMGBA a little while ago. To me its simple – I enjoy the advantages of their publications and online resources.

I was just a little disappointed at the “attitude” of a small number of folks.
 
Just remember Bret, some small groups of people have small minds. Not to worry, in one ear, out the other.Peace /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
I belong to both. I enjoy both publications and have learned valuable info from both. I'm a little put off by the attitude of some of the NAMGBR folks...seem to think "there's not room enough in this town for the two of us". On the whole most folks from both organizations are great. I also belong to the MG Drivers Club, which also has some great folks.
FWIW
 
Bret,

Do not know of any bad blood, but from others here there is "something" going on perhaps.

I have been a member of AMGBA for years. In fact, I had been a member for a long time before I finally got our MGB.Was a member of NAMGBA for about a year. Enjoyed there publication as well as I do AMGBA's, but I dropped my NAMGBA membership when they raised their dues. Actually, that was the excuse I had. Anyway, for me I am more comfortable with AMGBA. May some day re up my NAMGBA membership, who knows?

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
I don't mean to derail this thread, but I gotta ask... Bret, how stiff is the ride in your 'B, is it noticeably stiffer than stock? I was just looking at your page and you put the 550# springs on the front, right? Do you have any ground clearance worries after lowering your 'B 2", or is it still high enough that you don't have to worry too much? What about that Special Tuning front spoiler? Is it making friends with speed bumps?

I'm trying to decide if I want to lower my 'B with Moss's 480# springs or with thier 550# springs... I figure the ride will be about the same as it is now, if I go with 480# springs and 1" lower with a RB doesn't seem like it would create any ground clearance problems for normal driving. However, I'm thinking that 2" might look and handle better, but I'm wondering if the handling gain is worth the extra stiffness and possible clearance worries.
 
Hey Nunyas,

Yes the front coil springs are the 550s. And IMHO that is about as low as you should go with a rubber bumper B. Otherwise you're geometry will be off and you’ll be down in the mud with anything lower & need to use the earlier crossmember.

Anyway the combination I have is probably not for everyone, as it is a little stiff. But remember I've also rebuilt the entire front & rear suspension with Energy polyurethane bushings. I don’t think anybody should make any of the modifications I’ve done, without at least making sure their bushings are up to stress or are new. At first the ride was a bit harsh and picked up every irregularity in the road surface, but once I installed some better rubber things got much better.

Only problem was the new Bridgestone 195/60x14s are even lower than the El Cheap-O 195/70’s I put on a few years ago. The new rubber was a little more (ok a lot more) expensive and I had to remove the center resonator (muffler) because it would drag across speed bumps almost every time no matter how slow I went. With that removed I have much better ground clearance now (lowest ~3” to 4” /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif ).

Also the ST spoiler did change the whole look & stance of the vehicle for the better IMHO. But it didn’t have as much of an impact on daily driving as the lowering did. Other than having to watch pulling too far into parking spaces and risk hitting the spoiler on the curb or one of those concrete tire blocks.

Over all I still need to be careful going too fast over speed bumps, but that’s the trade off because other than that she rides really nice and hugs the turns insanely tight.
 
Thanks for the reply Bret,

Cool, I've recently upgraded my rubber bushings to Prothane Poly bushes, and changed my 185/70 balding tires for 185/65 el cheapo tires. The ride seemed really really harsh (I felt every crack in the road) at first, but I think that was because the tire place inflated the tires to max inflation (44PSI /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif). The ride is much nicer now, probably because the bushings have settled in and the tires are slightly less inflated (around 32 front/35 rear).

I'm also curious about your rear springs, are they composite leafs or were they lowered by removal of a leaf? I understand blocks are the easiest and probably the cheapest route to lowering the rear of a 'B, but I have personal problems with the idea of stacking blocks to get 1.5 or 2" of lowering.

thanks!
 
NAMGBR and AMGBA are both there for you if you want them.
I happen to belong to both as well as my local Long Island MG AND Triumph Clubs, as well as the MG Car Club of CT. If the immediate past Chairman of NAMGBR(me)is a member of AMGBA how much bad blood could there be?

I have always suggested belonging to both but at the same time favored NAMGBR because it is member run. I have never met Frank Ochal or Bruce Magers from AMGBA so have nothing + or - to offer about them, except to say they are providing a service and they should be thanked for doing so.

I believe in supporting organizations that cater to the MG Enthusiast's interests and needs.

Safety Fast,
David Deutsch
 
[ QUOTE ]
Thanks for the reply Bret,

I'm also curious about your rear springs, are they composite leafs or were they lowered by removal of a leaf? I understand blocks are the easiest and probably the cheapest route to lowering the rear of a 'B, but I have personal problems with the idea of stacking blocks to get 1.5 or 2" of lowering.

thanks!

[/ QUOTE ]

The rear springs are (or should be) a set of lowering springs I got from a Moss distributor. But when they arrived they actually sat much higher than the old worn out units I was replacing. So much so the car was raked really bad when it sat on the ground.

I talked to the guy I bought them from and he refused to help & insisted that they where lowered springs. Me not knowing any better then - I backed down. Anyway I had a set of lowering blocks sitting around and that seemed to do the trick. I know I should have fought the guy harder on the springs, but as hard as it was to remove the old one and install the new springs I didn’t want to deal with removing them again. Besides at the time having the car sitting up on jacks, while I waited for the problem to be resolved wasn't an option. The better half was already coming down on me pretty hard about spending all weekend in the garage and had I pushed the issue I would have had to move out there permanently (if you get my drift? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif ).

Anyway they are new and I can only measure less than 1/8” from one side to the other with & without a driver in the vehicle. While I would have preferred (and still may change to) true lowering springs the lowering blocks work fine. But like the 550lb springs up front I wouldn’t try lowering blocks with worn out leaf springs.

Oh & a word of advice - if you’re going to go with new leafs in the rear, do yourself a huge favor and order new shackles & mounting hardware. You’ll thank me later.
 
I'll second that one. When I replaced my rear springs, I wished I'd ordered all new U bolts, shackles, and assorted hardware. I ended up shearing the U bolts in about 3 out of 4 cases because the nuts were rusted fast. It really didn't take as much force as I would have hoped ... (perhaps it's a good thing that the U-bolts are now new!) I also ordered the little rubber bits, bump stops, and travel limiters, but wished I'd done that before I started the project.
 
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