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TR2/3/3A Alumnium Radiator??

6TTR3A

Jedi Warrior
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My 40 year old radiator core is shot so I need to make a decision. I can get it re-cored for about the same price as the new aluminum ones from China. I can't find any opinions, pro or con, about the Chinese ones. Does anyone out there have or heard anything good or bad to say about them?
I've heard good and bad about the (non-aluminum) ones that the big guys sell, but nothing about the
aluminum ones.
HELP!! :confused:


Frank
 
Frank,

I have been told that the quality of the soldering on alumninum radiators is critical. TIG welded as opposed to glued units is preferred. I don't know what the Chinese use. Perhaps someone else in this Forum who knows about all this can advise you.

With an aluminum radiator, you have to pay special attention to your antifreeze. Most antifreeze today is good for 5 years (anti-corrosion chemicals in it), but it is best to flush and change it every TWO or THREE years because the chemicals lose their effect over time.

You have a steel block and an alloy radiator. Most of the problems with dissimilar metals is electrolysis.

I have read, "The average service of an OEM copper/brass radiator is six to ten years, and eight to twelve for aluminum." That surprises me because the cars and trucks I have had I have kept for 10-15-20 years and never replaced the radiators.
 
Doesn't really answer the question, but made the difference for me. My local radiator shop says they won't even try to repair aluminum radiators.

And as noted, aluminum is much more prone to corrosion, if you don't keep the corrosion inhibitors up to date.
 
And, yet, most if not all new cars come with aluminum radiators. Go figure....

BTW, a really good American aluminum radiator for a Triumph is expensive.... $800 or more.


I put one in my car, but that's because I was convinced that it would make the car run cooler.... And in fact that is exactly what has happened (but other factors may have been at work).
 
Darrell,

You are probably closer to the cost than I stated. My was custom made.
 
And, yet, most if not all new cars come with aluminum radiators. Go figure....
The price of copper has really soared in recent years; a copper penny is currently worth a bit over 2 cents just for the copper. So they use aluminum for radiators mostly because it's cheaper.

They even tried using aluminum wiring, again because it's cheaper (the difference is almost 6:1) rather than better, but that is now illegal in homes (in most places). Too many fires from aluminum corrosion.
 
I faced a similar decision and opted for a new core for my original radiator. Cost as much as the replacements but possibly is of better quality. I was fortunate that we still had a very old-school radiator shop (sadly, now closed) in Tucson at the time. You know you're in good hands when you walk in with it and the (really old) guy says 'Ah... a TR3?'.

Looked so nice I couldn't resist dolling it up a bit:

RadiatorTags_zps616bc643.jpg
 
TR3driver identified the key point, aluminum runs about 1/3 the cost of copper these days. Copper is the best for heat transfer, (well silver is 'the' best but) and there is a close correlation between electrical and heat conductivity. Aluminum's real problem is its high chemical reactivity, and once the original oxide coating, which is in fact extremely durable (think rubies/sapphires) is breached /corroded through, look out. Keep that antifreeze changed out. I really think the Japanese big 3 have superior chemistry to US brands having seen numerous good and bad examples of both. Copper is just a better bet for both heat transfer (assuming equal tube and fin area) and corrosion resistance. Aluminum's big advantage is the lower weight. You can successfully repair aluminum with Al solders if its not too old. The thicker the oxide coat is, the tougher to clean, so that the solder sticks well.
 
I have suffered with over heating with the 1960 TR3A since restoration. Built engine totally stock in hopes that might help keep her cool. No luck. Every Summer suffered the over heating issues. Really desired the car to stay totally stock...but broke down this summer....put in the Wizard Alum radiator ($450) and a alum water pump from England...and BINGO! over heating issues solved! ran her up thru the hills this weekend to the coast...and never above 185. Wish I had done this several years ago. Gil NoCal
 
Gil,
Thanks for the reply. I haven't found very many "Wizard" customers so your input is important. Did you purchase your unit from Wizard directly? The photos on their website appear to show two holes on each lower mounting bracket. I've verified that they didn't weld a nut to the bracket but I can't imagine the need for two holes. Did yours come that way? I'm going to use a trick that Bob Shaller used so it would be nice if there were no holes. Maybe Wizard can make me one with no holes
Frank
 
I believe Wizard does make them to order, so getting a custom change shouldn't be a big deal. I have a Wizard on my TR4A, very happy with it.
 
Frank...Sorry not sure about the holes. I can tell you that the radiator went in extremely well. Bought it directly from Wizard. They make the radiators to order...but mine only took 2 weeks from order date to delivery date. Packaging on the shipping was excellent. Mine is the 4th Wizard radiator in our local group. You might check re what antifreeze they suggest to use. I didnt ask...but followed what the local guys use....not sure exactly what that is...but do know it is not the off the shelf stuff for todays cars.
Good luck. Gil NoCal
 
My Wizard radiator is a very nice unit - I purchased from TRF during their annual sale. I have only run the engine in the garage so can't comment on it's cooling capability. But I have high expectations.
Pat
 
Over a period of years I tried everything I could to solve my overheating problems, and nothing worked until I installed the Wizard aluminum rad. Even on the hottest days here in CA I run cool. I think I purchased directly from Wizard with no problem or wait.

The other good thing is that I took the old copper radiator to our local metal recycler and they gave me about $40 cash for it.
 
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