Aluminium Pan

[Bob_Spidell]

Anyone running one? Any noticeable effect on engine cooling?

My old steel pan is getting pretty beat up; considering an Al pan, probably from DW. My concern would be fracturing if I high-centered or hit a rock; anyone had that happen? DW also sells a 'low profile' version; anyone know if that affects capacity?

TIA,
Bob

 

[Michael Oritt]

Bob--

If I read it correctly according to this aluminum is more heat conductive than steel:

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html

I have successfully taken some dents out of steel sumps that would probably have caused fractures had they been made of AL.

I doubt there would be a big difference in oil temperature. It would certainly lighten the car a little and your wallet a lot.

 

[Healey Nut]

I would stick to steel . Although the alluminium pans are more heat conducting especially if you use one of the finned ones they are more fragile than steel . Steel is more forgiving if you hit something ....kerb ,protruding rock when driving over a car show field etc . Steel just bends/dents unless you hit something really sharp . Alluminium will crack and be a lot more difficult to repair . Take the old one off beat out the dents braze any weak spots repaint and your good to go . A few dents just add a little Healey Patina to the old girl .

if you install a low profile one how would that affect the oil pump pick up would you need to install a "low profile" oil pump as well ?

 

[steveg]

I've been running aluminum pans first in Alfas then in my Healey for 40 years and have hit rocks a couple of times without cracking the pans. Knocked chips out of some fins, though. Supposedly they also stiffen the crank area of the engine.

They're not that fragile.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I was told by more than one person is that they do fracture easily. That's not good because if they get cracked and leak you got a real problem if it happens on the road. I do t think there's a steel oil pan without cents in the bottom of it.

 

[steveg]

I was told by more than one person is that they do fracture easily. That's not good because if they get cracked and leak you got a real problem if it happens on the road. I do t think there's a steel oil pan without cents in the bottom of it.

Wonder if any of them actually owned and fractured an aluminum pan.

 

[Keoke]

Aluminum is cast and is highly susceptible to fracturing but users with the AL pans seem to not have a chronic problem.

Aluminum is about as conductive thermally as it is electrically when compared to steel.

OH! Bob:
There was a guy and his son on Amazon or E-Bay that restored the metal pans to like new on an exchange basis do not know if they still advertise.

 

[4tecdog]

Fitted an Aluminium pan a few months ago, mainly because the original was beat up and a suspected crack around the drain plug. Good job I did as found some po had mixed two of the big end caps, so checked clearances and installed new shells and replacement oil pump which I had to modify by taking about 10mm off the pick up tube for the Aluminium pan.
A little difficult to line up and fit a lift or ramp recommended. Slight difference in running temp, but my oil pressure is a lot better now (nothing to do with the pan!) engine seems a bit quieter now but will take heed about comments on grounding out.

 

[Randy Forbes]

Personally, I have only seen one (1) Healey engine oil pan that wasn't caved in in the front and/or bottom, that was the NOS one (1) purchased for the 100/6 Longbridge engine I built for the car Jim (aka healey blue) restored.

Even my own car, which has lived a relatively sheltered life since 1986__daily driver up until then__has a dented pan; when in the hoot did that happen?!?! I had straightened and taken all the dents out the last time I went through and replaced the bearings and rings (annually when I was autocrossing it in the 80s). Okay, with 195/65 tires, it rides a little lower than most, but I can't remember hitting anything (except the muffler, all I have to do is take the corner near our house exuberantly to scrape that...).

If it was free, would I put an aluminum sump on my car? Probably not. It would sure look gorgeous fitted to an engine on a stand in the shop though!

 

[RA_Healey]

I run a DW aluminum pan on the race car. I have had no issues. It does have a slightly lower profile than a stock steel pan. Th DW low profile pan is the same pan with the mounting flange just being shaved down. Therefore not worth doing.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Wonder if any of them actually owned and fractured an aluminum pan.

one for sure.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

OH! Bob:
There was a guy and his son on Amazon or E-Bay that restored the metal pans to like new on an exchange basis do not know if they still advertise.

Yeah, I recall that too. IIRC, it was the son of Tom (don't recall last name--Monaco, maybe?), the owner of the parts house in the northwest (British Car Parts Northwest, maybe?). He cut the bottom off the pan and welded a new/fabbed one on.

 

[steveg]

Yeah, I recall that too. IIRC, it was the son of Tom (don't recall last name--Monaco, maybe?), the owner of the parts house in the northwest (British Car Parts Northwest, maybe?). He cut the bottom off the pan and welded a new/fabbed one on.

Don't know about the pan repair, but Tom Monaco is the owner of Tom's Import Toys.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Don't know about the pan repair, but Tom Monaco is the owner of Tom's Import Toys.

Right you are.

 

[Duane_Rhynard]

Don't know about the pan repair, but Tom Monaco is the owner of Tom's Import Toys.

Link below to oil pan repair: Tom's Import Toy Sales

https://tomsimport.com/new/index.asp?services

 

[John Turney]

I have a DW aluminum pan and have worried that it would fracture, but it hasn't. I've unintentionally whacked it pretty good a few times too.

 

[BOBBYR]

Hi Bob, I don't think I would want a cast oil pan on my motor . Steel might get dented and event torn or sliced in an extreme case but cast could break and cause a massive leak quick . Keep the faith and stick with steel .
BobbyR

 

[bob hughes]

I own a BJ7

I have a DW ali pan fitted along with a high output oil pump - no problems so far and I do not intend to take it into areas where there are huge bolders or up onto kerbs where you can possibly damage the sump.

Having said all that, I found that contrary to expectations I did not have to trim anything off the dip stick and also the sump holds 1 imperial gallon to bring the oil up to the mark on the stick. I originally pushed the 12 pints in after the rebuild but on the oil change and after talking to Bill Rawles and others I dropped back to 8 pints
and I have had no problems to-date.



Bob

 

[Bob_Spidell]

I own a BJ7 ...

Having said all that, I found that contrary to expectations I did not have to trim anything off the dip stick and also the sump holds 1 imperial gallon to bring the oil up to the mark on the stick. I originally pushed the 12 pints in after the rebuild but on the oil change and after talking to Bill Rawles and others I dropped back to 8 pints
and I have had no problems to-date.



Bob

Hmm ... My BJ8--same engine, I believe--takes about 7.5 US quarts to fill to the mark on the dip stick. That's almost 2 US gallons, almost 1.6 imperial gallons or about 15 pints. I don't think I'd be comfortable running on a little more than half that.