Aluminium facing on sills and shut pillar, BJ8

[NIB]

I am going to replace the aluminium facing on the shut pillar and sills.
Are there anything tips to doing that, also, is there an easy way to glue the piping on to the shut pillar aluminium?
Where is the piping supposed to end.
If the screw holes are to big, do you drill new ones abit apart form the original or ?

 

[Johnny]

I would suggest you view as many photos as you can to see how they fit. Pictures speak volumes.

I used contact cement to hold the piping on to the plates.

It's very important to get the proper size drill bit for the #4 round head screws. Too big a hole and they won't tighten up, too small a hole and you'll ruin the screw head trying to get them secure.

Usually the piping extends up and over the top portion of the plates.

 

[tahoe healey]

Cut darts or V's on the flat portion when going around the curves with the piping.

 

[Keoke]

I am going to replace the aluminium facing on the shut pillar and sills.
Are there anything tips to doing that,

Yes buy the piping from Mcgregor


also, is there an easy way to glue the piping on to the shut pillar aluminium?

If you get your piping from Mcgregor the finger stock will hold it in place and gluing will not be required.

Where is the piping supposed to end.

At the front of the door it ends up under the dash a bit.
At the rear it ends up on top of the rear side panels with the little metallic closeout hiding the end.

However, to make that sharp bend at the top of the door you will be required to cut the webbing only,a small "V" will suffice.

If the screw holes are to big, do you drill new ones a bit apart form the original or ?

This is left up to the installer--Keoke-- :laugh:

 

[AUSMHLY]

Hello NIB,
One of my video's shows the pillar area. When you get to that point, pause it and take a look at the areas you're interested in. Click HERE
Cheers,
Roger

 

[Randy Forbes]

ALong with darts, you'll want to use plenty of clamps, the let the cement cure fully before installation on the car.

Pretty sure I used a #47 drill bit for the screws I had. Borderline tight, so using a new (Pozidrive, in my case) screwdriver is a plus.

I added a bit of a "patch" to help secure the sharp bend, as I've had trouble with them unwinding before...

 

[NIB]

Thank you very much to all of you, I am pretty sure I can do the job now with all the advice and nice pictures.

 

[Legal Bill]

I'm operating from memory only, but as I recall the concours guidelines and the Moment/Anderson book advise that the cars originally had the stuffing removed from the piping at the point where it curves over the top of the face plate. If you install them with the stuffing installed at that point they are harder to install, can interfere with the door closing and will not be original. I can check this when I get home tonight if anyone needs confirmation.