Alternator Pics for JP

[Morris]

Hey Jp,

Firstly read this sight https://www.teglerizer.com/alternator/. Then read and re-read Duncan's awesome alternator post. Once all that info is sunk in, check this out.

Firstly, the lower mount on the early Spitfire engine and maybe some early Midget engines is different than what's on Duncan's car.

Here is the lower mount for Duncan's car.

And here is the lower mount for the early Spit engine.

Note the absence of the thick/long "ear" on Duncan's bracket. If you have the early style mount, it makes it possible to flip the orientation of the alternator such that the thicker mounting "ear" on the alternator case engages the lower mount. You can then reuse the old lower mounting bolt from your original alternator. This eliminates the need to grind, drill, or alter the alternator case. I suppose if you have the same style of lower mounting bracket as Duncan's and you don't have a junk Spit motor lying around as I did, you could do your cutting and grinding on the mounting bracket. Most of the Delco alternators you pick up at the local Big Boxes come with a lifetime warranty. It might be easier to get said Big Box to honor said warranty if the alternator case has not been altered.

You can get a generic alternator bracket designed for Chevy V8s at your local big box, too. I cut and drilled mine so that it could be mounted like this.

You will need a few washers to space the alt bracket where it mounts to the thermostat housing. (I intend to machine a spacer to replace the washers... someday) You will also need to buy or source a longer 5/16-24 bolt for the thermostat housing as the one currently there will not be long enough with the washers. I had plenty of extras after removing the air pump.

The wiring is the same as detailed in Duncan's write up, but I added a hood from coil wire from an old set of plug wires I had. This hood goes over the main lug on the back of the alternator.

I had to weld a few wrenches and screw drivers to my block before I got motivated to make this mod.

One thing that Duncan mentioned that I respectfully disagree with is that he used a nylock washer on the lower mount so that it would be free to turn. Once you have your belt tight and your upper mount tightened, go ahead and tighten the lower mount good and tight. I also recommend a thick strong lock washer.

 

[JPSmit]

First of all, thanks!!! this is wonderful!

let me confirm a couple of things

1. did you rotate your alternator top to bottom like Duncan?

2. when you mounted your plugs - did you cut and re-solder the new wires to the old?

3. what model # alternator did you use?

4. it looks like you removed the original top bracket (the one also used for engine removal) is this correct?

5. do you still have the indicator light on the dash - does it still work the same way?

thanks for all this
JP

 

[Morris]

1) No. If you have the old style lower mount, you don't have to invert the alternator.

2) Yes.

3) I asked for a '78 Camero Alt. I don't no the P/N.

4) Yes. I don't use that to remove my engine. I put webbed cargo straps under the engine.

5) Indicator still works as before.

 

[JPSmit]

thanks - and I forgot to mention that I have the same bracket as Duncan. I'm kind of liking Don's solution (from Duncan's thread)

 

[JPSmit]

well got the new alternator today - even had a $10 coupon. they didn't have the bracket - 3 days to order - what is this country coming to?

hope to have it on mid week.

BTW Canadians the alternator was $89 @ Part Source $99 at Canadian Tire and $120 at NAPA. and they wouldn't take the core ($10 more)

 

[JPSmit]

got the bracket today, cut two brackets for the bottom of the alternator (as per Donn) from the bracket and has lots left over for the top. it's all mocked up and ready to go - just need the correct bolts - and it should fit well.

One question - how much clearance is there above the alternator to the hood? The new one might sit higher.

 

[JPSmit]

well, progress. spent a couple hours getting it in. was just massaging the new bracket into alignment when I realized the spacer I needed was exactly the same size as the original bracket. In other words, I seem to have installed the new alternator without any modifications at all except the wire harness. She starts but backfires so I called it a night. However, will post pictures soon.

nite all

 

[racingenglishcars]

Cool!

 

[JPSmit]

Well, finished tonight. 14.2 volts at the battery - no illuminated dash light any longer. everything taped and put to bed - and only the harness is changed.

Here are some photos

The first picture is the key to my project. This bracket must have had something to do with the air pump. It is now the bracket for the bottom of the alternator.

The next picture is the bracket on the bottom of the alternator. I had to add one or two washers to completely even it out.

The third picture is the new bracket installed on the engine. Note that it fits the hole just below the old alternator bolt hole. Thus I get the same strength as the old bracket which is bolted to the block.

The fourth picture and fifth are the alternator installed. Note that the original top bracket is still being used.

Also note that the bottom brackets (I made) have holes 1 1/2 in. apart.

 

[JPSmit]

Oh - and I used an alternator with the plug at 9 O'clock - a three O'clock might have been neater.

 

[racingenglishcars]

Very nice.
The resident engineers are most certainly proud.

 

[racingenglishcars]

I just came across this on my neighbors Ford this afternoon!