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Alpine engine specs.
- Thread starter zags
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aeronca65t
Great Pumpkin
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Welcome!
I would strongly advise that you buy a workshop manual rather than rely on information on-line. I've seen stuff on-line that was complelely wrong.
That said, you could probably trust Google Books but it may take a bit of time to dig around there before you find anything.
Amazon has several Alpine manual for moderate cost.
~Here's One~
I would strongly advise that you buy a workshop manual rather than rely on information on-line. I've seen stuff on-line that was complelely wrong.
That said, you could probably trust Google Books but it may take a bit of time to dig around there before you find anything.
Amazon has several Alpine manual for moderate cost.
~Here's One~
mikephillips
Yoda
Offline
First thing you need to do is determine which engine you have. It's not uncommon over the years for the original to have gone missing and been replaced with one out of another Alpinr. So there should be a number stamped on the flat over the passenger side fuel pump on the block. If it matches the vin, then you have the original. If it doesn't, then does the dipstick enter the block or the oilpan?? If the block, then you have the later 5 main bearing 1725 engine. Into the oilpan and it's most likely the 3 main 1592 version like the original would have been. Slight chance it could be the 3 main 1494 of the series 1, but only way to tell is by the casing day on the starter side, bore sizes, crank main and rod sizes, etc.
So check what you have and we can go from there.
So check what you have and we can go from there.
Thanks for the replies guys. I went ahead and ordered a factory workshop manual. I checked the block, and the VIN number matches, so it looks to be a 1592. The car has 68k original miles on it and is very complete. The bearings and crank look perfect, but unfortunately it sat for 23 years and has some rust pitting in the cylinders so I will will have to have it bored. It spent it's whole life in AZ and I am the second owner, but it sat exposed to the elements with two broken windows so the interior is shot and the floor and seat pans are rusted through. It also suffered a horrible body repair on the LF and equally bad repaint at one time. I have restored several cars before, but this is my first Sunbeam. My wife fell in love with it, and it is going to be a driver for her. I look forward to getting to know everyone on the forum!
aeronca65t
Great Pumpkin
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Sounds great and I'm glad to hear you are keeping it basically original.
So many of these Sunbeams have been modified (usually with engine swaps), that there are hardly any originals left (which should make your's more valuable).
Also, just for fun, you can ~Click Here~ to see a Sunbeam I regularly race with.
So many of these Sunbeams have been modified (usually with engine swaps), that there are hardly any originals left (which should make your's more valuable).
Also, just for fun, you can ~Click Here~ to see a Sunbeam I regularly race with.
mikephillips
Yoda
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Best premade interiors in the US tend to come from Sunbeam Specialties on the west coast. They can provide color samples and do some custom work.