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Alloy Radiator

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prb51

prb51

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Just got my new shiny alluminum radiator for my TR3. Really nice piece.
I got tired of repairing the two old ones I have as it seemed a leak (very small drip type) would spring up here/there after the most recent repair.
The original brass drain will fit and I don't have an ally available. Would wrapping the threads in teflon tape isolate the two dif metals well enough?
 
I am sure you will be fine with that.

For one thing any reaction would probably take several years. That reaction would also require a salt or acid solution. Keeping the antifreeze fresh should insure that there is no problem. On military vehicles we used to use test strips to test the acid level in antifreeze to prevent corrosion, which is what you are concerned about. Don't know if the test strips are available any longer but all that needs to be done is flush and replace the coolant every year or two, possibly longer with the new antifreeze being sold.
 
For the sake of an insulating factor, I think you would be ok with the use of teflon tape here. Although brass fittings do not require any sort of tape or pipe dope for sealing purposes.
One other thing you may want to consider is, using anti seize, it MAY give you a much better insluation.
I agree with Tom here replace the coolant every two years or sooner if the coolant starts to become somewhat discolored.
Given the price {Especialy of an aluminum radiator} were it me, I would not exceede the two year time frame. No matter what the antifreeze manufacturers claims may be.
Two gallons of antifreeze is MUCH cheaper than a new radiator!
Last but not least use, the antifreeze formulated for aluminum radiators. {The phosphate based type}
here is a LINK
to an article all about antifreeze charecteristics, types and anything you ever need to know about antifreeze.
I Hope this is somewhat informative
Kerry
 
Given that the original system includes aluminum/brass and aluminum/steel connections, I'd worry a lot more about keeping your antifreeze/corrosion protection current, than trying to insulate the plug from the radiator.

IMO, the chances of actually insulating it with Teflon tape are very low. It's so soft that it will crush out where the threads contact each other.

tomshobby said:
On military vehicles we used to use test strips to test the acid level in antifreeze to prevent corrosion, which is what you are concerned about. Don't know if the test strips are available any longer
Click to expand...
https://www.no-rosion.com/test.htm

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]possibly longer with the new antifreeze being sold. [/QUOTE]
I'm not sure I believe this, but it might be worth reading :
https://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/3837/dexcool.html
 
OK, I'll be needing a new radiator for the TR3. Since there isn't that much of a difference in price between the aluminium radiator and the standard one (maybe about #$30-$40), what is the best way to go. Is the only advantage weight, or will the aluminium transfer heat better. All of this is assuming a radiator WITHOUT the crank hole. What are the pros and cons?
 
You are going to get a lot of response in both directions with this one.
In my honest opinion, one drawback to an aluminum radiator is corrosion induced not from the inside out, but corosion from the outside in.
The reason I say this is, when I resided in South Texas Inner costal {Close to the ocean} where there is a lot of salt and humidity in the air. Some of my friends that had the aluminum radiators in thier {Newer vehicles} encountered just such problems with aluminum radiators corroding from the outside in. However it is of my opinion, with proper maintenance and care {frequent rinsing of the radiator} whenever you wash the vehicle, much of this corrosion problem could be eliminated.
Here is an article Copper/Brass versus Aluminum radiators
According to this article the heat diffusion is neglagable between the two unless of course you incorporate more tubes {tube to fin ratio}
The major advantage to an aluminum radiator is apperently weight and the possibility of having it manufactured to your specific requirements. IE. more rows of tubes and fins.
I`m sure others will have thier own opinions as this is a well debated subject.
Kerry
 
According to my radiator guy, the aluminum ones don't cool as well as copper/brass. Don't know if that's true or not, but it makes sense to me since I know that aluminum does not conduct heat as well as copper (all other things being equal).

At any rate, he sold me a new Modine core in my old radiator frame for a lot less than a new repro radiator. My choice of crank hole or no crank hole (I went without), and filler neck depth (I kept it original but wish I'd gone for the modern size instead). Next time, I'll also have him add braces for the extended tank, and tabs to mount a fan shroud.
 
Good info Gents.
Here in the dry desert of Az I suspect the alloy will do just fine and it looks so good too.
The unit (from TRF) is well made with very nice welds and fits perfectly.
I'd heard (on this forum) that some were not too happy with the Chinese repro units so opted for a locally made alloy unit that's really not much more. Glad I did.
 
Ron Davis Racing, over in your neck of the woods (Arizona) made my aluminum radiator for my TR6. It has been in 2 years and shows no signs of corrosion or any other problems. He does caution against using brass in the rad though. I went with stainless steel plug, etc. That said, I don't use the crank fan anymore, just a 16" Spal electric (all that Ron recommends) and everything works fine.
 
prb51 said:
Bill,
I'll take your advice and cap it with a SS bolt.
How did you attach the fan?
Click to expand...

Spal fans have a very nice bracket that attaches to the four corners of the fan housing. They bolt up really securely to this housing after being placed as needed. I very carefully drilled pilot holes in the aluminum frame of the radiator, being mindful of the location of the cooling fins. I then used large, sturdy stainless steel sheet metal screws and drove them home. Hasn't budged since.
 
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