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Replaced Points, rotor, condenser, cap, plug wires, and plugs still not starting. adjusted the point gap to .15, can hear the fuel pump, spraying starting fluid into the carps still hasnnt helped. all the wiring appears decent, just a constant crank, never anything more ever since it spuddered then died on the highway the other week
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All new ignition...still no start
- Thread starter cl_miata
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tomshobby
Yoda
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Coil? Remove the coil ground wire and pull the hi-tension out of the dizzy cap. Lay the hi-tension on the valve cover or next to a ground source. Turn on the ignition and using a jumper wire momentarily short the coil ground. Should make a nice spark from the hi-tension to ground to source.
tomshobby
Yoda
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spark, fuel, compression
Are you getting spark at the plugs?
Are you getting furl to the carbs? Probably not the problem since starting fluid doesn't help.
Is the timing set to the compression stroke of #1 cyl or is it 180 degrees off? If you crank the engine with the plugs out as #1 comes up on the compression stroke it will blow your finger or thumb off the hole.
Those three will focus your quest.
Are you getting spark at the plugs?
Are you getting furl to the carbs? Probably not the problem since starting fluid doesn't help.
Is the timing set to the compression stroke of #1 cyl or is it 180 degrees off? If you crank the engine with the plugs out as #1 comes up on the compression stroke it will blow your finger or thumb off the hole.
Those three will focus your quest.
SilentUnicorn
Yoda
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and ste your points to .015 NOT .15
mark
mark
dklawson
Yoda
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Your profile only says that you own a Midget, not what year Midget. IF the car has the 25D series Lucas distributor, there is a very common mistake made when fitting new points.
On the 25D distributor uses some nylon shouldered washers (bushings) to insulte the spring of the points from the post with the nut. If the nylon parts are omitted or placed on in the wrong order, you create a dead short across the points. It's like the points never open. If the points don't open or are effectively shorted you won't get a spark.
Also, you said you fit a bunch of new parts. As silly as this sounds, make sure the rotor is inside the distributor. You'd be surprised how easy it is to forget to install it as you're fitting all the other new ignition parts.
This picture link may explain what I was describing about the nylon bushings.
https://drcwww.uvt.nl/~bogaard/manual/tuneup/25d4poin.gif
On the 25D distributor uses some nylon shouldered washers (bushings) to insulte the spring of the points from the post with the nut. If the nylon parts are omitted or placed on in the wrong order, you create a dead short across the points. It's like the points never open. If the points don't open or are effectively shorted you won't get a spark.
Also, you said you fit a bunch of new parts. As silly as this sounds, make sure the rotor is inside the distributor. You'd be surprised how easy it is to forget to install it as you're fitting all the other new ignition parts.
This picture link may explain what I was describing about the nylon bushings.
https://drcwww.uvt.nl/~bogaard/manual/tuneup/25d4poin.gif
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
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Did you check that your coil is getting power?
If yes, then double check what Doug mentioned above. The wire that hooks onto the points should only have continuity to ground when the points are closed.
If yes, then double check what Doug mentioned above. The wire that hooks onto the points should only have continuity to ground when the points are closed.
texas_bugeye
Jedi Knight
Offline
if your tach is of the vintage where the wire makes a connection not a loop could be theres band connection or open short.
yup, the coil is getting power and I triple checked to make sure all the washers were in place on the new points. With the tack, are you referring to where it connects at the gauge or at the distrbutor? if it quits raining before I go to work will check to see if there is ant charge coming from the coil in hopes I just was sold a bad coil
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If you have good, new parts that are wired correctly, it will work. It's really that simple. So, in cases like this, success depends on methodically tracking down the problem until it's cornered like a scared rabbit. Just trying things randomly probably won't get you anywhere.
First thing to do is check for spark at the plugs. If you have a strong spark, the ignition's OK and there's no need to deal with it further, except maybe to recheck the plug gap--but unless it's completely closed, on all plugs (rather unlikely...) that won't prevent some hitting.
If there is no spark at the plugs, check for voltage at the coil, then disconnect the coil from the points and use an ohmmeter or test light to make sure the points are conducting when closed, and not conducting when they are supposed to be open. Check the resistance of the coil--it's not unknown for new ones to be bad. Check the wiring for continuity--its rare but not unheard of for wires to break inside the insulation.
If the ignition checks out (I'll bet it won't), then it has to be lack of fuel at the carbs.
There was a guy, I forget his name, who wrote the automobile column in Popular Mechanics, I think, back in the sixties. He once wrote that if you car dies, check for fuel at the carbs and spark at the plugs, and if you have both, get back in, start it, and drive away.
First thing to do is check for spark at the plugs. If you have a strong spark, the ignition's OK and there's no need to deal with it further, except maybe to recheck the plug gap--but unless it's completely closed, on all plugs (rather unlikely...) that won't prevent some hitting.
If there is no spark at the plugs, check for voltage at the coil, then disconnect the coil from the points and use an ohmmeter or test light to make sure the points are conducting when closed, and not conducting when they are supposed to be open. Check the resistance of the coil--it's not unknown for new ones to be bad. Check the wiring for continuity--its rare but not unheard of for wires to break inside the insulation.
If the ignition checks out (I'll bet it won't), then it has to be lack of fuel at the carbs.
There was a guy, I forget his name, who wrote the automobile column in Popular Mechanics, I think, back in the sixties. He once wrote that if you car dies, check for fuel at the carbs and spark at the plugs, and if you have both, get back in, start it, and drive away.
IT LIVES IT LIVES IT LIVES.....I used the wiring diagram that was linked, but the new points that I received use a bit different set up, the bushing is different, along witht he lower bushing... I narrowed down the original problem being that the point in the middle of the cap was broken.... all of your guy's help was greatly greatly appreciated!
bugimike
Yoda
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I had the same thing happen years ago, and it drove me crazy!!! The carbon brush in the center of the cap had cracked in two, but up inside where the spring is...to all intents and purposes on visual inspection it all looked fine! After removing the cap a few times while trying to locate the problem, the darned thing just dropped out!!! A definite Eureka moment!! :thumbsup: