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Air pump removal

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Greg_C

Senior Member
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I need to ask what's involved in removing the the air pump, gulp valve and the manifold that feeds the head ports on my '71 1275.
I think the head ports take 7/16 x 20 x 1/2 (?)plugs,
and I think I read a post about a 1/2" flair plug for the intake manifold.
Does this sound correct, and will the timing or carb be affected and require adjusting.
I would like to elimanate this crud from my motor bay, and local regs won't apply to the car.
As a note, I seen that post on Jay Lenos Midget.
Couldnt help to notice his thermostat housing was the one with a pump bracket.
Are bracket-less housings hard to get?
And yes, I'll keep all the part's togeather just in case
the rules change.

Greg
 
Yes to the head plugs, 7/16 x 20 and short alan head grub screws look the best.
As far as plugging the intake, wait and see if you need any positive crankcase ventilation. A totally sealed engine will usually blow oil out of the rear main scroll because it is not a true seal.
The timing and carbs may have to be tweaked, the idle will indeed need to be set lower.
There are t/stat covers for the cross flow radiators available from the UK suppliers. I have one on my Sprite. They do not have the air pump bracket but point the correct way.
 
Thanks spritenut,
Should those headscrews be steel or brass, and would something
like copper anti-seize lube be recomended?
If a grub ( allen cap?) screw is used, should it bottom out, and
what length is best? 1/2 or 3/4" ?

So many questions........

Thanks

Greg
 
I use 1/2" long steel alan screws.
I once used brass plugs but they tended to loosen up in time, it makes a heck of a noise when one pops out and you hear that exhaust popping out of the hole.
Steel head, steel screws.
 
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