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Someone on the Healey team.autox list posted yesterday about having a gap between the windshield and hood on his BN1. I described a solution that I came up with a few years ago and said I'd send him some snapshots. However, since this is a common problem on BN1's and BN2's I thought that I would post a description of the solution and some photos to the BCF. See the photo attached to this post for an overall shot of the part and photos attached to the three following posts for different and closer views.
Basically it consists of making a stay, one end of which attaches to the top using the (existing) center triangular chrome "header rail retainer" and the other end of which passes down through the scuttle and allows you to tighten the hood down via a wingnut or knurled nut from behind the dashboard.
The parts are available at any West Marine store and the tools to cut the wire and swage the fittings are provided free to use at the store on the rigging bench. You will need to buy:
1. Approximately 12" of 1/8" diameter clear vinyl coated 1x19 stainless steel wire (West Marine part #131862 @$1.19/foot).
2. Johnson Marine swage fork for 1/8" wire (West Marine part #113383 @$12.99).
3. Johnson Marine swage threaded terminal for 1/8" wire (West Marine part #172124 @$6.99).
4. A short 1/4" clevis pin and cotter pin or ring to attach the fork to the "header ring retainer" through the hole where the rubber buffer normally goes (maybe $2.00).
5. A 1/4-28 wingnut or thumbnut to tighten down the rig under the dash (less than $1.00).
Fabrication is as follows:
1. Attach fork to the retainer using the clevis pin.
2. Drill a 5/16" diameter hole in your scuttle just in front of the rear view mirror, matching as best possible the angle of the windshield and pass the threaded terminal down through the hole so that there is a sufficient amount of threading to allow you to easily attach the wing or thumb nut from behind the dashboard.
3. Measure the amount of wire that will be needed to attach the two fittings together, cut the wire and using the nicopress tool at the rigging bench insert the wire into the fittings and attach them. Put two or three crimps in each.
That's it--after you erect the top and fasten down the standard clamps simply pass the threaded terminal down through the hole, reach under the dash and pull the top down tight against the windshield. Assuming your gasket is intact and reasonably in place that will be the end of your air and water leaks from between the top and the windscreen.
FWIW no one has ever noticed the hole in the scuttle of my car when the top is down and no one has ever commented on the stay when the top is up. This modification also reduces scuttle shake and mirror vibration.
Basically it consists of making a stay, one end of which attaches to the top using the (existing) center triangular chrome "header rail retainer" and the other end of which passes down through the scuttle and allows you to tighten the hood down via a wingnut or knurled nut from behind the dashboard.
The parts are available at any West Marine store and the tools to cut the wire and swage the fittings are provided free to use at the store on the rigging bench. You will need to buy:
1. Approximately 12" of 1/8" diameter clear vinyl coated 1x19 stainless steel wire (West Marine part #131862 @$1.19/foot).
2. Johnson Marine swage fork for 1/8" wire (West Marine part #113383 @$12.99).
3. Johnson Marine swage threaded terminal for 1/8" wire (West Marine part #172124 @$6.99).
4. A short 1/4" clevis pin and cotter pin or ring to attach the fork to the "header ring retainer" through the hole where the rubber buffer normally goes (maybe $2.00).
5. A 1/4-28 wingnut or thumbnut to tighten down the rig under the dash (less than $1.00).
Fabrication is as follows:
1. Attach fork to the retainer using the clevis pin.
2. Drill a 5/16" diameter hole in your scuttle just in front of the rear view mirror, matching as best possible the angle of the windshield and pass the threaded terminal down through the hole so that there is a sufficient amount of threading to allow you to easily attach the wing or thumb nut from behind the dashboard.
3. Measure the amount of wire that will be needed to attach the two fittings together, cut the wire and using the nicopress tool at the rigging bench insert the wire into the fittings and attach them. Put two or three crimps in each.
That's it--after you erect the top and fasten down the standard clamps simply pass the threaded terminal down through the hole, reach under the dash and pull the top down tight against the windshield. Assuming your gasket is intact and reasonably in place that will be the end of your air and water leaks from between the top and the windscreen.
FWIW no one has ever noticed the hole in the scuttle of my car when the top is down and no one has ever commented on the stay when the top is up. This modification also reduces scuttle shake and mirror vibration.
